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Embroidery is the art of decorating or other materials using a to stitch . It is one of the oldest forms of , with origins dating back thousands of years across various cultures.

(2019). 9781350123366, Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
Common stitches found in early embroidery include the , buttonhole or blanket stitch, , , and . Modern embroidery continues to utilize traditional techniques, though many contemporary stitches are exclusive to machine embroidery.

Embroidery is commonly used to embellish accessories and garments is usually seen on , clothing, and accessories. In addition to thread, embroidery may incorporate materials such as , , , and to highlight texture and design. Today, embroidery serves both decorative and functional purposes and is utilized in fashion expression, cultural identity, and custom-made gifts.

A person who is doing embroidery is called an embroiderer. An archaic term is broderer, derived from French broderie for 'embroidery'. Broderer


Classification
Embroidery can be classified according to what degree the design takes into account the nature of the base material and by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric. The main categories are free or surface embroidery, counted-thread embroidery, and needlepoint or canvas work.

In free or surface embroidery, designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery.

Counted-thread embroidery are created by making stitches over a predetermined number of threads in the foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery is more easily worked on an foundation fabric such as embroidery , , or specially woven and fabrics. Examples include and some forms of blackwork embroidery.

While similar to counted thread in regards to technique, in or , threads are stitched through a fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation fabric. Examples of canvas work include bargello and Berlin wool work.

Embroidery can also be classified by the similarity of its appearance. In drawn thread work and , the foundation fabric is deformed or cut away to create holes that are then embellished with embroidery, often with thread in the same color as the foundation fabric. When created with white thread on white linen or cotton, this work is collectively referred to as . However, whitework can either be counted or free. Hardanger embroidery is a counted embroidery and the designs are often geometric.

(2016). 9780975767771, Vetty Creations.
Conversely, styles such as Broderie anglaise are similar to free embroidery, with floral or that are not dependent on the weave of the fabric.
(2007). 9780313335488, Greenwood Publishing Group. .


History

Origins
The process used to tailor, patch, mend and reinforce cloth fostered the development of techniques, and the decorative possibilities of sewing led to the art of embroidery. Indeed, the remarkable stability of basic embroidery stitches has been noted:

The art of embroidery has been found worldwide and several early examples have been found. The earliest surviving embroidered cloth comes from Egypt. The Egyptians were skilled at embroidery, using appliqué decorations with leather and beads. Works in China have been dated to the Warring States period (5th–3rd century BC). In a garment from Sweden, roughly 300–700 AD, the edges of bands of trimming are reinforced with , back stitch, stem stitch, tailor's buttonhole stitch, and Whip stitch, but it is uncertain whether this work simply reinforced the seams or should be interpreted as decorative embroidery.Coatsworth, Elizabeth: "Stitches in Time: Establishing a History of Anglo-Saxon Embroidery", in .


Historical applications and techniques
Depending on time, location and materials available, embroidery could be the domain of a few experts or a widespread, popular technique. This flexibility led to a variety of works, from the royal to the mundane. Examples of high status items include elaborately embroidered clothing, religious objects, and household items often were seen as a mark of wealth and status.

In medieval England, , a technique used by professional workshops and guilds in medieval , was used to embellish textiles used in church rituals. In 16th century England, some books, usually bibles or other religious texts, had embroidered bindings. The in contains one presented to in 1583. It also owns a copy of The Epistles of Saint Paul, whose cover was reputedly embroidered by the Queen.

(1978). 9780448220666, Paddington Press.

One of the oldest complete embroidered works still in existence is the , an embroidered cloth nearly long and tall that depicts the events leading up to the in 1066, led by William, Duke of Normandy, challenging , and culminating in the Battle of Hastings. It is thought to date to the 11th century, within a few years of the battle.; ;

In 18th-century and its colonies, with the rise of the merchant class and the wider availability of luxury materials, rich embroideries began to appear in a context. These embroideries took the form of items displayed in private homes of well-to-do citizens, as opposed to a church or royal setting. Even so, the embroideries themselves may still have had religious themes. Samplers employing fine silks were produced by the daughters of wealthy families. Embroidery was a skill marking a girl's path into womanhood as well as conveying rank and social standing.

Embroidery was an important art and signified social status in the Medieval Islamic world as well. The 17th-century traveler Evliya Çelebi called it the "craft of the two hands". In cities such as , and , embroidery was visible on , uniforms, flags, , shoes, , tunics, horse trappings, slippers, sheaths, pouches, covers, and even on belts. Craftsmen embroidered items with and thread. Embroidery cottage industries, some employing over 800 people, grew to supply these items.

In the 16th century, in the reign of the , his chronicler Abu al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote in the famous :

Embroidery was often perceived primarily as a domestic task performed by women, frequently viewed as a leisurely activity rather than recognized as a skilled craft.

(2019). 9781350123366, Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
Women who lacked access to formal education or writing implements often used embroidery to document their lives through stitched narratives, effectively creating personal diaries through textile art, especially when literacy was limited.
(1994). 9780393035063, W. W. Norton & Company.

Embroidery is also a , using materials that were accessible to nonprofessionals. Examples include Hardanger embroidery from Norway; Merezhka from ; Mountmellick embroidery from Ireland; from and ; Achachi from ; and Brazilian embroidery. Many techniques had a practical use such as from , which was used as a way to reinforce clothing.

In marginalized communities, embroidery has also served as a tool of empowerment and expression. For example, in , embroidery initiatives arose in response to economic pressures intensified by climate change, including desertification, allowing women to express themselves and preserve cultural identities through traditional embroidery skills. Embroidery has also preserved the stories of marginalized groups, particularly women of color, whose experiences were historically underrepresented in written records. In South African communities, embroidered "story cloths" have captured and preserved critical perspectives and events otherwise missing from historical narratives.


21st century
Since the late 2010s, there has been a growth in the popularity of embroidering by hand. As a result of visual social media such as and , artists can share their work more extensively, which has inspired younger generations to pick up . Https://doi.org/10.5204/mcj.2932 Https://doi.org/10.1386/jaac_00008_1

Contemporary embroidery artists believe hand embroidery has grown in popularity as a result of an increasing need for relaxation and digitally disconnecting practices. Many people are also using embroidery to creatively upcycle and repair clothing, to help counteract over-consumption and fashion industry waste.

Modern canvas work tends to follow symmetrical counted stitching patterns with designs emerging from the repetition of one or just a few similar stitches in a variety of hues. In contrast, many forms of surface embroidery make use of a wide range of stitching patterns in a single piece of work.


In literature
Embroidery portrays a large function of representation in many literary works. Hobbies in regards to stitching, , or have learned to be acquainted with women through the 18th to 19th century. Embroidery alters itself in literary contexts to perform as a symbol instead of a depiction of culture and rooted history. Novels by capture a depiction where women are riddled with silent productivity and installs certain societal norms within a specific gender.

In the goddess is said to have passed down the art of embroidery (along with ) to humans, leading to the famed competition between herself and the mortal .

(2026). 9781851493593, Antique Collectors' Club.


Traditional hand embroidery around the world
Aari embroidery and Silk thread, fabric, beads or sequins
Assisi embroidery, Italy, , Cloth, red thread, silk, stranded perlé cotton
Balochi needleworkBalochistan, Pakistan Beads, cloth, shisha, thread
Bargello, ItalyVertical stitches (e.g. "flame stitch")Linen or cotton canvas, wool floss or yarn
Berlin wool work, Germany or Linen or cotton canvas, wool floss or yarn
, , stem stitchLinen or cotton fabric, black or red silk thread
Brazilian embroideryBullion knots, cast-on stitch, drizzle stitch, , , fly stitch, stem stitchCloth, thread
Broderie anglaiseButtonhole stitch, , White cloth and thread
, thread
techniquesRayon or silk thread
, Unbleached cotton thread, unbleached
Chasu, , leaf stitch, long-and-short stitch, mat stitch, , padding stitch, , seed stitch
Chikan, India, , shadow-workCloth, white thread
Colcha embroiderySouthwestern United States Cotton or linen cloth, wool thread
CrewelworkChain stitch, couched stitches, knotted stitches, satin stitch, seed stitch, split stitch, stem stitchCrewel yarn, linen twill
Goldwork, , Cloth,
Gota patti, India
Gu Xiu, China Silk cloth and thread
Hardanger embroideryButtonhole stitch, cable stitch, , , , , White thread, white linen cloth
Hedebo embroidery, , Denmark White linen cloth and thread
Kaytagsky District, , RussiaLaid-and-couched workCotton cloth, silk thread
Old saris, thread
, , ,
, India, double running stitch, , zigzag running stitchCotton thread and cloth
Khamak, AfghanistanCotton or wool fabric, silk thread
The CongoEmbroidery, appliqué, cut-pile embroideryRaffia cloth and thread
, , India Cotton cloth, cotton or silk thread
Lambada embroidery
Mountmellick work, , Ireland, padded stitchesWhite cotton cloth and thread
, , underside couchingLinen or velvet cloth, , silk thread
Opus teutonicumHoly Roman EmpireButtonhole stitch, , goblien stitch, pulled work, , White linen cloth and thread
Or nuéFabric, , silk thread
, , brick stitchLinen or cotton canvas, wool or silk floss or yarn
Phool Patti ka Kaam, India
Hand-spun cotton cloth, silk floss
Ixtle or pita thread, leather
Beads, cloth, feathers, feather quills, leather, porcupine quills
, , Iran, silk thread
, outline stitchRed thread, white cloth
RichelieuPurportedly from 16th century , revival in 19th century and Buttonhole stitchWhite thread, white cloth
, , Linen or hemp cloth, thread
Indigo-dyed cloth, white or red cotton thread
Sermeh embroideryAchaemenid Persia cloth, velvet, cotton fabrics, various threads
Muslin, thread
Shu Xiu, , China Satin, silk thread
Cable stitch, honeycomb stitches, , , stem stitch, trellis stitch, wave stitchAny fabric supple enough to be gathered, cotton or silk thread
Su XiuSuzhou, , China Silk cloth and thread
SuzaniButtonhole stitches, , , Cotton fabric, silk thread
Palestine, Cotton fabric, silk thread
Tenango embroideryTenango de Doria, Hidalgo, Mexico
Velours du KasaïKasai, the Congo
Vietnamese embroidery
, China Silk cloth, black, white, and grey silk thread
Yue Xiu, China Silk cloth and thread
and Cloth,
Zmijanje embroidery, Bosnia and Herzegovina Blue thread, white cloth
Theu tay Truyen thongLayerd stitchSilk thread, controlled thin stiches


Materials and tools

Materials
The fabrics and yarns used in traditional embroidery vary from place to place. , , and have been in use for thousands of years for both fabric and . Today, embroidery thread is manufactured in , , and as well as in traditional wool, linen, and silk. embroidery uses narrow ribbon in silk or silk/ blend ribbon, most commonly to create floral motifs.

Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile.


Tools
A is the main stitching tool in embroidery, and comes in various sizes and types. The tips may be sharp or blunt, depending on the type of material the needle needs to be drawn through. Tapestry needles are blunt and larger than a chenille needle which is sharp and shorter than a standard embroidery needle.

In both canvas work and surface embroidery, an or frame can be used to stretch the material and ensure even stitching tension that prevents pattern distortion. Frames can come in a square or rectangular shape and prevent the canvas from distorting. The two types of frames used are scroll and artist's stretcher bars.

is often used to treat thread. It smooths and strengthens threads, especially silk and metallic threads.


Machine embroidery
machine embroidery emerged in the early 20th century. As embroidery shifted from personalized craft to mechanical output during the Industrial Revolution, the craft developed into a structured industry centered on large-scale production.
(2019). 9780857850645, Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
The first embroidery machine was the hand embroidery machine, invented in France in 1832 by Josué Heilmann. The next evolutionary step was the schiffli embroidery machine. The latter borrowed from the sewing machine and the to fully automate its operation. The manufacture of machine-made embroideries in St. Gallen in eastern Switzerland flourished in the latter half of the 19th century.Röllin, Peter. Stickerei-Zeit, Kultur und Kunst in St. Gallen 1870–1930. VGS Verlagsgemeinschaft, St. Gallen 1989, (in German) Both St. Gallen, Switzerland and were important centers for machine embroidery and embroidery machine development. Many Swiss and Germans immigrated to Hudson county, New Jersey in the early twentieth century and developed a machine embroidery industry there. Shiffli machines have continued to evolve and are still used for industrial scale embroidery.

Contemporary embroidery is stitched with a embroidery machine using patterns digitized with embroidery software. In machine embroidery, different types of "fills" add texture and design to the finished work. Machine embroidery is used to add and to business shirts or jackets, gifts, and team apparel as well as to decorate household items for the bed and bath and other linens, draperies, and decorator fabrics that mimic the elaborate hand embroidery of the past.

Machine embroidery is most typically done with , although can also be used. thread, on the other hand, is prone to breaking and is avoided.

There has also been a development in free hand machine embroidery, new machines have been designed that allow for the user to create free-motion embroidery which has its place in textile arts, quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings and more. Users can use the embroidery software to digitize the digital embroidery designs. These digitized design are then transferred to the embroidery machine with the help of a flash drive and then the embroidery machine embroiders the selected design onto the fabric.


Art therapy
The practice of slow threading and repetitive motion ensues a calming process within a persons mind. Therapists portray the process as getting to regulate certain emotions, allowing patients to reminisce on memory. As embroidery holds a rich history, this invokes a calming and grounding state where people learn to regulate emotions as they embroider. It is an activity where the mind is able to think on its own and encourages strong reflection on identity, memorabilia, and culture.

== Gallery ==

from , Bangladesh Folk Arts and Crafts Foundation]]
rug, contemporary.]]
embroidery]]
, late 15th or early 16th century. Silk velvet embroidered with silk and gold threads, closely laid and couched. Contemporary Art Institute of Chicago textile collection.]]
from the region of ]]
bridal dress from ]]
embroidery and tassel of embroidery floss]]
being embroidered by a family.]]
about tablecloths made with Madeiran embroidery]]


See also
  • Broderie de Fontenoy-le-Château
  • Chinese embroidery
  • Embroidery of India
  • Khamak
  • Mary Ann Beinecke Decorative Art Collection
  • Sachet (scented bag)
  • Sampler (needlework)


Notes

Citations

Bibliography


Further reading


External links

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