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Surrey () is a ceremonial county in South East England. It is bordered by to the northeast, to the east, and to the south, and and to the west. The largest settlement is .

The county has an area of and a population of 1,214,540. Much of the north of the county forms part of the Greater London Built-up Area, which includes the within the M25 motorway as well as Woking (103,900), (77,057), and (32,522). The west of the county contains part of built-up area which includes , , and and which extends into Hampshire and Berkshire. The south of the county is rural, and its largest settlements are (22,693) and (22,689). For local government purposes Surrey is a non-metropolitan county with eleven districts. The county historically included much of south-west Greater London but excluded what is now the borough of Spelthorne, which was part of . It is one of the .

The defining geographical feature of the county is the , a chalk escarpment which runs from the south-west to north-east and divides the densely populated north from the more rural south; it is pierced by the rivers and , both tributaries of the . The north of the county is a lowland, part of the Thames basin. The south-east is part of the , and the south-west contains the Surrey Hills and Thursley, Hankley and Frensham Commons, an extensive area of . The county has the densest woodland cover in England, at 22.4 per cent.


Geography
Surrey is divided in two by the chalk ridge of the , running east–west. The ridge is pierced by the rivers and , tributaries of the Thames, which formed the northern border of the county before modern redrawing of county boundaries, which has left part of its north bank within the county. To the north of the Downs the land is mostly flat, forming part of the basin of the Thames. The geology of this area is dominated by in the east, in the west and deposits along the rivers.

To the south of the Downs in the western part of the county are the sandstone Surrey Hills, while further east is the plain of the Low , rising in the extreme southeast to the edge of the hills of the High Weald. The Downs and the area to the south form part of a concentric pattern of geological deposits which also extends across southern Kent and most of Sussex, predominantly composed of , and the chalk of the Downs.

Much of Surrey is in the Metropolitan Green Belt. It contains valued reserves of mature (reflected in the official logo of Surrey County Council, a pair of interlocking oak leaves). Among its many notable beauty spots are Box Hill, , , and Puttenham & Crooksbury Commons.

Surrey is the most wooded county in England, with 22.4% coverage compared to a national average of 11.8% and as such is one of the few counties not to recommend new woodlands in the subordinate planning authorities' plans. In 2020 the district had the highest proportion of tree cover in England at 41%. Surrey also contains England's principal concentration of lowland , on sandy soils in the west of the county.

Agriculture not being intensive, there are many and access lands, together with an extensive network of footpaths and bridleways including the North Downs Way, a scenic long-distance path. Accordingly, Surrey provides many rural and semi-rural leisure activities, with a large horse population in modern terms.

The highest elevation in Surrey is near . It is above sea level and is the second highest point in southeastern England after in which is .


Surrey rivers
The longest river to enter Surrey is the , which historically formed the boundary between the county and . As a result of the 1965 boundary changes, many of the Surrey boroughs on the south bank of the river were transferred to , shortening the length associated with the county. The Thames now forms the Surrey– border between and Staines-upon-Thames, before flowing wholly within Surrey to Sunbury, from which point it marks the Surrey–Greater London border as far as .

The is the longest of the Thames above London. Other tributaries of the Thames with their courses partially in Surrey include the , the Addlestone branch and Chertsey branch of the River Bourne (which merge shortly before joining the Thames), and the , which drains and .

The upper reaches of the River Eden, a tributary of the , are in Tandridge District, in east Surrey.

The River Colne and its , the , make a brief appearance in the north of the county to join the Thames at Staines.


Climate
Like the rest of the , Surrey has a with warm summers and cool winters. The Met Office weather station at , about to the north-east of Guildford, has recorded temperatures between (August 2003) and (January 1982). From 2006 until 2015, the Wisley weather station held the UK July record high of .


Settlements
Surrey has a population of approximately 1.1 million people. Its largest town is with a population of 105,367, followed by with 77,057, and with 66,566. Towns of between 30,000 and 50,000 inhabitants include , and .

Much of the north of the county, extending to Guildford, is within the Greater London Built-up Area. This is an area of continuous linked without significant interruption of rural area to Greater London. In the west, there is a developing straddling the Hampshire/Surrey border, including the Surrey towns of and .

Guildford is often regarded as the historic , although the county administration was moved to Newington in 1791 and to Kingston upon Thames in 1893. The county council's headquarters were outside the county's boundaries from 1 April 1965, when Kingston and other areas were included within by the London Government Act 1963, until the administration moved to Reigate at the start of 2021.


History

Ancient British and Roman periods
Before Roman times the area today known as Surrey was probably largely occupied by the tribe, centred at Calleva Atrebatum (), in the modern county of , but eastern parts of it may have been held by the , based largely in . The Atrebates are known to have controlled the southern bank of the Thames from Roman texts describing the tribal relations between them and the powerful on the north bank.

In about AD 42 King (in Welsh legend ) of the Catuvellauni died and war broke out between his sons and King of the Atrebates. The Atrebates were defeated, their capital captured and their lands made subject to , king of the Catuvellauni, ruling from (). Verica fled to and appealed for Roman aid. The Atrebates were allied with Rome during the invasion of Britain in AD 43.

During the Roman era, the only important settlement within the historic area of Surrey was the London suburb of (now part of ), but there were small towns at , , , and Kingston upon Thames.Remains of Roman rural temples have been excavated on and near Wanborough and , and possible temple sites at , and . The area was traversed by Stane Street and other Roman roads.


Formation of Surrey
During the 5th and 6th centuries Surrey was conquered and settled by . The names of possible tribes inhabiting the area have been conjectured on the basis of place names. These include the Godhelmingas (around Godalming) and Woccingas (between and in Berkshire). It has also been speculated that the entries for the Nox gaga and Oht gaga peoples in the may refer to two groups living in the vicinity of Surrey. Together their lands were assessed at a total of 7,000 hides, equal to the assessment for Sussex or Essex.

Surrey may have formed part of a larger kingdom or confederacy, also including areas north of the Thames. The name Surrey is derived from Sūþrīge (or Suthrige), meaning "southern region" (while refers to it as Sudergeona) and this may originate in its status as the southern portion of the Middle Saxon territory.

If it ever existed, the Middle Saxon kingdom had disappeared by the 7th century, and Surrey became a frontier area disputed between the kingdoms of Kent, Essex, Sussex, and , until its permanent absorption by Wessex in 825. Despite this fluctuating situation it retained its identity as an enduring territorial unit. During the 7th century Surrey became Christian and initially formed part of the East Saxon diocese of London, indicating that it was under East Saxon rule at that time, but was later transferred to the West Saxon diocese of Winchester. Its most important religious institution throughout the period and beyond was , founded in 666. At this point Surrey was evidently under Kentish domination, as the abbey was founded under the patronage of King Ecgberht of Kent. However, a few years later at least part of it was subject to Mercia, since in 673–675 further lands were given to Chertsey Abbey by Frithuwald, a local sub-king (subregulus) ruling under the sovereignty of Wulfhere of Mercia. A decade later Surrey passed into the hands of of Wessex, who also conquered Kent and Sussex, and founded a monastery at in 686.

The region remained under the control of Caedwalla's successor Ine in the early 8th century. Its political history for most of the 8th century is unclear, although West Saxon control may have broken down around 722, but by 784–785 it had passed into the hands of of Mercia. Mercian rule continued until 825, when following his victory over the Mercians at the Battle of Ellandun, of Wessex seized control of Surrey, along with Sussex, Kent and Essex. It was incorporated into Wessex as a and continued thereafter under the rule of the West Saxon kings, who eventually became kings of all of England.


Identified sub-kings of Surrey
  • Frithuwald ()
  • Frithuric? ()


West Saxon and English shire
In the 9th century England was afflicted, along with the rest of northwestern Europe, by the attacks of . Surrey's inland position shielded it from coastal raiding, so that it was not normally troubled except by the largest and most ambitious Scandinavian armies.

In 851 an exceptionally large invasion force of arrived at the mouth of the Thames in a fleet of about 350 ships, which would have carried over 15,000 men. Having sacked and London and defeated King Beorhtwulf of Mercia in battle, the Danes crossed the Thames into Surrey, but were slaughtered by a West Saxon army led by King Æthelwulf in the Battle of Aclea, bringing the invasion to an end.

Two years later the men of Surrey marched into Kent to help their Kentish neighbours fight a raiding force at , but suffered heavy losses including their , Huda. In 892 Surrey was the scene of another major battle when a large Danish army, variously reported at 200, 250 and 350 ship-loads, moved west from its encampment in Kent and raided in Hampshire and Berkshire. Withdrawing with their loot, the Danes were intercepted and defeated at Farnham by an army led by Alfred the Great's son Edward, the future King Edward the Elder, and fled across the Thames towards Essex.

Surrey remained safe from attack for over a century thereafter, due to its location and to the growing power of the West Saxon, later English, kingdom. Kingston was the scene for the coronations of Æthelstan in 924 and of Æthelred the Unready in 978, and, according to later tradition, also of other 10th-century Kings of England. The renewed Danish attacks during the disastrous reign of Æthelred led to the devastation of Surrey by the army of Thorkell the Tall, which ravaged all of southeastern England in 1009–1011. The climax of this wave of attacks came in 1016, which saw prolonged fighting between the forces of and the Danish king , including an English victory over the Danes somewhere in northeastern Surrey, but ended with the conquest of England by Cnut.

Cnut's death in 1035 was followed by a period of political uncertainty, as the succession was disputed between his sons. In 1036 Alfred, son of King Æthelred, returned from , where he had been taken for safety as a child at the time of Cnut's conquest of England. It is uncertain what his intentions were, but after landing with a small retinue in Sussex he was met by Godwin, Earl of Wessex, who escorted him in apparently friendly fashion to . Having taken lodgings there, Alfred's men were attacked as they slept and killed, mutilated or enslaved by Godwin's followers, while the prince himself was blinded and imprisoned, dying shortly afterwards. This must have contributed to the antipathy between Godwin and Alfred's brother Edward the Confessor, who came to the throne in 1042.

This hostility peaked in 1051, when Godwin and his sons were driven into exile; returning the following year, the men of Surrey rose to support them, along with those of Sussex, Kent, Essex and elsewhere, helping them secure their reinstatement and the banishment of the king's entourage. The repercussions of this antagonism helped bring about the of England in 1066.

The records that the largest landowners in Surrey (then Sudrie) at the end of Edward's reign were and , Earl of Wessex and later king, followed by the estates of King Edward himself. Apart from the abbey, most of whose lands were within the shire, Surrey was not the principal focus of any major landowner's holdings, a tendency which was to persist in later periods. Given the vast and widespread landed interests and the national and international preoccupations of the monarchy and the earldom of Wessex, the Abbot of Chertsey was therefore probably the most important figure in the local elite.

The Anglo-Saxon period saw the emergence of the shire's internal division into 14 hundreds, which continued until times. These were the hundreds of Blackheath, Brixton, Copthorne, Effingham Half-Hundred, Elmbridge, Farnham, Godalming, Godley, Kingston, Reigate, Tandridge, Wallington, Woking and Wotton.


Identified [[ealdormen/" itemprop="url" title="Wiki: eal"> <hr class="us2411627114"> <span class="us654509567 us1353177739">Identified [[ealdormen">eal">
Identified [[ealdormen
of Surrey
  • Wulfheard ()
  • Huda (?–853)
  • Æðelweard (late 10th century)
  • Æðelmær (?–1016)


Later Medieval Surrey
After the Battle of Hastings, the army advanced through Kent into Surrey, where they defeated an English force which attacked them at and then burned that suburb. Rather than try to attack London across the river, the Normans continued west through Surrey, crossed the Thames at Wallingford in Berkshire and descended on London from the north-west. As was the case across England, the native ruling class of Surrey was virtually eliminated by Norman seizure of land. Only one significant English landowner, the brother of the last English Abbot of Chertsey, remained by the time the Domesday survey was conducted in 1086. At that time the largest landholding in Surrey, as in many other parts of the country, was the expanded royal estate, while the next largest holding belonged to Richard fitz Gilbert, founder of the family.

In 1088, King William II granted William de Warenne the title of Earl of Surrey as a reward for Warenne's loyalty during the rebellion that followed the death of William I. When the male line of the Warennes became extinct in the 14th century, the earldom was inherited by the Earls of Arundel. The Fitzalan line of Earls of Surrey died out in 1415, but after other short-lived revivals in the 15th century the title was conferred in 1483 on the , who still hold it. However, Surrey was not a major focus of any of these families' interests.

, one of many fortresses originally established by the Normans to help them subdue the country, was rebuilt in stone and developed as a royal palace in the 12th century. was built during the 12th century as a residence for the Bishop of Winchester, while other stone castles were constructed in the same period at Bletchingley by the de Clares and at by the Warennes.

During King John's struggle with the barons, was issued in June 1215 at near . John's efforts to reverse this concession reignited the war, and in 1216 the barons invited Prince Louis of to take the throne. Having landed in Kent and been welcomed in London, he advanced across Surrey to attack John, then at , occupying Reigate and Guildford castles along the way.

Guildford Castle later became one of the favourite residences of King Henry III, who considerably expanded the palace there. During the baronial revolt against Henry, in 1264 the rebel army of Simon de Montfort passed southwards through Surrey on their way to the Battle of Lewes in Sussex. Although the rebels were victorious, soon after the battle royal forces captured and destroyed Bletchingley Castle, whose owner Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Hertford and Gloucester, was de Montfort's most powerful ally.

By the 14th century, castles were of dwindling military importance, but remained a mark of social prestige, leading to the construction of castles at Starborough near Lingfield by Lord Cobham, and at Betchworth by John Fitzalan, whose father had recently inherited the Earldom of Surrey. Though Reigate and Bletchingley remained modest settlements, the role of their castles as local centres for the two leading aristocratic interests in Surrey had enabled them to gain status by the early 13th century. As a result, they gained representation in Parliament when it became established towards the end of that century, alongside the more substantial urban settlements of Guildford and Southwark. Surrey's third sizeable town, Kingston, despite its size, borough status and historical association with the monarchy, did not gain parliamentary representation until 1832.

Surrey had little political or economic significance in the Middle Ages. Its agricultural wealth was limited by the infertility of most of its soils, and it was not the main power-base of any important aristocratic family, nor the seat of a bishopric.Brandon and Short, The South East from AD 1000, pp. 8–10, 62–64, 127–131. The London suburb of Southwark was a major urban settlement, and the proximity of the capital boosted the wealth and population of the surrounding area, but urban development elsewhere was sapped by the overshadowing predominance of London and by the lack of direct access to the sea. Population pressure in the 12th and 13th centuries initiated the gradual clearing of the , the forest spanning the borders of Surrey, Sussex and Kent, which had hitherto been left undeveloped due to the difficulty of farming on its heavy clay soil.

Surrey's most significant source of prosperity in the later Middle Ages was the production of woollen cloth, which emerged during that period as England's main export industry. The county was an early centre of English textile manufacturing, benefiting from the presence of deposits of fuller's earth, the rare mineral composite important in the process of finishing cloth, around Reigate and Nutfield. The industry in Surrey was focused on Guildford, which gave its name to a variety of cloth, gilforte, which was exported widely across Europe and the Middle East and imitated by manufacturers elsewhere in Europe. However, as the English cloth industry expanded, Surrey was outstripped by other growing regions of production.

Though Surrey was not the scene of serious fighting in the various rebellions and civil wars of the period, armies from Kent heading for London via Southwark passed through what were then the extreme north-eastern fringes of Surrey during the Peasants' Revolt of 1381 and Cade's Rebellion in 1450, and at various stages of the Wars of the Roses in 1460, 1469 and 1471. The upheaval of 1381 also involved widespread local unrest in Surrey, as was the case all across south-eastern England, and some recruits from Surrey joined the Kentish rebel army.

In 1082 a abbey was founded at by Alwine, a wealthy English citizen of London. near Farnham, founded in 1128, was the first monastery in England. Over the next quarter-century monks spread out from here to found new houses, creating a network of twelve monasteries descended from Waverley across southern and central England. The 12th and early 13th centuries also saw the establishment of Augustinian priories at , , , Southwark and Reigate. A friary was established at Guildford by Henry III's widow Eleanor of Provence, in memory of her grandson who had died at Guildford in 1274. In the 15th century a priory was founded by King Henry V at . These would all perish, along with the still important abbey of , in the 16th-century Dissolution of the Monasteries.

Now fallen into disuse, some English counties had nicknames for those raised there such as a , or a 'yellowbelly' from . In the case of Surrey, the term was a 'Surrey capon', from Surrey's role in the later Middle Ages as the county where chickens were fattened up for the London meat markets.


Early Modern Surrey
Under the early kings, magnificent royal palaces were constructed in northeastern Surrey, conveniently close to London. At an existing royal residence was rebuilt on a grand scale under King Henry VII, who also founded a nearby in 1499. The still more spectacular palace of was later built for near Ewell. The palace at Guildford Castle had fallen out of use long before, but a royal hunting lodge existed outside the town. All these have since been demolished.

During the Cornish Rebellion of 1497, the rebels heading for London briefly occupied Guildford and fought a skirmish with a government detachment on Guildown outside the town, before marching on to defeat at Blackheath in Kent. The forces of Wyatt's Rebellion in 1554 passed through what was then northeastern Surrey on their way from Kent to London, briefly occupying Southwark and then crossing the Thames at Kingston after failing to storm London Bridge.

Surrey's cloth industry declined in the 16th century and collapsed in the 17th, harmed by falling standards and competition from more effective producers in other parts of England. The iron industry in the Weald, whose rich deposits had been exploited since prehistoric times, expanded and spread from its base in Sussex into Kent and Surrey after 1550. New furnace technology stimulated further growth in the early 17th century, but this hastened the extinction of the business as the mines were worked out. However, this period also saw the emergence of important new industries, centred on the valley of the Tillingbourne, south-east of Guildford, which often adapted watermills originally built for the now moribund cloth industry. The production of brass goods and wire in this area was relatively short-lived, falling victim to competitors in in the mid-17th century, but the manufacture of paper and proved more enduring. For a time in the mid-17th century the Surrey mills were the main producers of gunpowder in England.

A glass industry also developed in the mid-16th century on the southwestern borders of Surrey, but had collapsed by 1630, as the wood-fired Surrey glassworks were surpassed by emerging coal-fired works elsewhere in England. The , opened in 1653, was one of England's first canal systems.

George Abbot, the son of a Guildford clothworker, served as Archbishop of Canterbury in 1611–1633. In 1619 he founded Abbot's Hospital, an in Guildford, which is still operating. He also made unsuccessful efforts to revitalise the local cloth industry. One of his brothers, Robert, became Bishop of Salisbury, while another, , was a founding shareholder of the East India Company who became the company's Governor and later Lord Mayor of London.

Southwark expanded rapidly in this period, and by 1600, if considered as a separate entity, it was the second-largest urban area in England, behind only London itself. Parts of it were outside the jurisdiction of the government of the City of London, and as a result the area of became London's principal entertainment district, since the social control exercised there by the local authorities of Surrey was less effective and restrictive than that of the City authorities. Bankside was the scene of the golden age of Elizabethan and Jacobean theatre, with the work of playwrights including William Shakespeare, Christopher Marlowe, and performed in its playhouses. The leading actor and impresario founded the College of God's Gift in with an endowment including an art collection, which was later expanded and opened to the public in 1817, becoming Britain's first public art gallery.

Surrey almost entirely escaped the direct impact of fighting during the main phase of the English Civil War in 1642–1646. The local gentry led by Sir Richard Onslow were able to secure the county without difficulty on the outbreak of war. Farnham Castle was briefly occupied by the advancing in late 1642, but was easily stormed by the Parliamentarians under Sir . A new Royalist offensive in late 1643 saw skirmishing around Farnham between Waller's forces and 's Royalists, but these brief incursions into the western fringes of Surrey marked the limits of Royalist advances on the county. At the end of 1643 Surrey combined with Kent, Sussex and Hampshire to form the South-Eastern Association, a military federation modelled on Parliament's existing Eastern Association.

In the uneasy peace that followed the Royalists' defeat, a political crisis in summer 1647 saw Sir Thomas Fairfax's New Model Army pass through Surrey on their way to occupy London, and subsequent billeting of troops in the county caused considerable discontent. During the brief Second Civil War of 1648, the Earl of Holland entered Surrey in July, hoping to ignite a Royalist revolt. He raised his standard at Kingston and advanced south, but found little support. After confused manoeuvres between Reigate and as Parliamentary troops closed in, his force of 500 men fled northwards and was overtaken and routed at Kingston.

Surrey had a central role in the history of the radical political movements unleashed by the civil war. In October 1647 the first manifesto of the movement that became known as the , The Case of the Armie Truly Stated, was drafted at Guildford by the of army regiments and civilian radicals from London. This document combined specific grievances with wider demands for constitutional change on the basis of popular sovereignty. It formed the template for the more systematic and radical Agreement of the People, drafted by the same men later that month. It also led to the shortly afterwards, in which its signatories met with and other senior officers in the Surrey village of , where the army had established its headquarters, to argue over the future political constitution of England. In 1649 the , led by Gerrard Winstanley, established their communal settlement at St. George's Hill near to implement egalitarian ideals of common ownership, but were eventually driven out by the local landowners through violence and litigation. A smaller Digger commune was then established near Cobham, but suffered the same fate in 1650.


Modern history
Prior to the Reform Act 1832, Surrey returned fourteen Members of Parliament (MPs), two representing the county and two each from the six boroughs of Bletchingley, Gatton, Guildford, , Reigate and Southwark. For two centuries before the Reform Act, the dominant political network in Surrey was that of the Onslows of , a gentry family established in the county from the early 17th century, who were raised to the peerage in 1716. Members of the family won at least one of Surrey's two county seats in all but three of the 30 general elections between 1628 and 1768, while they took one or both of the seats for their local borough of Guildford in every election from 1660 to 1830, usually representing the Whig Party after its emergence in the late 1670s. Successive heads of the family held the post of Lord Lieutenant of Surrey continuously from 1716 to 1814.

One of the principal residences of the British monarchy in the 18th century was in north Surrey, leased by Queen Caroline of Brandenburg-Ansbach in 1728 and inhabited by her son Frederick, Prince of Wales, and later by King and Queen Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz. After the latter's death at the palace in 1818 it was sold. The White House was demolished about this time, but the Dutch House survives and is now a museum.

In 1765 the Richmond Theatre was built in Surrey under the supervision of . It was modelled after the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane and served as one of Surrey's main theatre's until it was demolished in 1884.

Until the modern era Surrey, apart from its northeastern corner, was quite sparsely populated in comparison with many parts of southern England, and remained somewhat rustic despite its proximity to the capital. Communications began to improve, and the influence of London to increase, with the development of roads and a system in the 18th century. A far more profound transformation followed with the arrival of the railways, beginning in the late 1830s. The availability of rapid transport enabled prosperous London workers to settle all across Surrey and travel daily to work in the capital. This phenomenon of commuting brought explosive growth to Surrey's population and wealth, and tied its economy and society inextricably to London.

There was rapid expansion in existing towns like Guildford, Farnham, and most spectacularly , while new towns such as Woking and Redhill emerged beside the railway lines. The huge numbers of incomers to the county and the transformation of rural, farming communities into a "" contributed to a decline in the traditional local culture, including the gradual demise of the distinctive . This may have survived among the "Surrey Men" into the late 19th century, but is now extinct.

Meanwhile, London itself spread swiftly across north-eastern Surrey. In 1800 it extended only to ; a century later the city's growth had reached as far as and . This expansion was reflected in the creation of the County of London in 1889, detaching the areas subsumed by the city from Surrey. The expansion of London continued in the 20th century, engulfing Croydon, Kingston and many smaller settlements. This led to a further contraction of Surrey in 1965 with the creation of , under the London Government Act 1963; however, and Sunbury-on-Thames, previously in Middlesex, were transferred to Surrey, extending the county across the Thames. Surrey's boundaries were altered again in 1974 when was transferred to .

In 1849 Brookwood Cemetery was established near Woking to serve the population of London, connected to the capital by its own railway service. It soon developed into the largest burial ground in the world. Woking was also the site of Britain's first crematorium, which opened in 1878, and its first mosque, founded in 1889. In 1881 Godalming became the first town in the world with a public electricity supply.

The eastern part of Surrey was transferred from the Diocese of Winchester to that of Rochester in 1877. In 1905 this area was separated to form a new Diocese of Southwark. The rest of the county, together with part of eastern Hampshire, was separated from Winchester in 1927 to become the Diocese of Guildford, whose cathedral was consecrated in 1961.

During the later 19th century Surrey became important in the development of architecture in Britain and the wider world. Its traditional building forms made a significant contribution to the vernacular revival architecture associated with the Arts and Crafts Movement, and would exert a lasting influence. The prominence of Surrey peaked in the 1890s, when it was the focus for globally important developments in domestic architecture, in particular the early work of , who grew up in the county and was greatly influenced by its traditional styles and materials.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the demise of Surrey's long-standing industries manufacturing paper and gunpowder. Most of the county's paper mills closed in the years after 1870, and the last survivor shut in 1928. Gunpowder production fell victim to the First World War, which brought about a huge expansion of the British munitions industry, followed by sharp contraction and consolidation when the war ended, leading to the closure of the Surrey powder mills.

New industrial developments included the establishment of the vehicle manufacturers Dennis Brothers in Guildford in 1895. Beginning as a maker of bicycles and then of cars, the firm soon shifted into the production of commercial and utility vehicles, becoming internationally important as a manufacturer of fire engines and buses. Though much reduced in size and despite multiple changes of ownership, this business continues to operate in Guildford. Kingston and nearby Ham became a centre of aircraft manufacturing, with the establishment in 1912 of the Sopwith Aviation Company and in 1920 of its successor H.G. Hawker Engineering, which later became and then .

During the Second World War a section of the , a system of pillboxes, gun emplacements, anti-tank obstacles and other fortifications, was constructed along the North Downs. This line, running from to , was intended as the principal fixed defence of London and the industrial core of England against the threat of invasion. German invasion plans envisaged that the main thrust of their advance inland would cross the North Downs at the gap in the ridge formed by the Wey valley, thus colliding with the defence line around Guildford.

Between the wars , opened in 1920, served as the main airport for London, but it was superseded after the Second World War by , and closed in 1959. , where commercial flights began in 1933, expanded greatly in the 1950s and 1960s, but the area occupied by the airport was transferred from Surrey to in 1974.

In June 1972, British European Airways Flight 548 crashed near just after taking off from Heathrow Airport. This remains the worst air accident in the UK.


Historic architecture and monuments
Few traces of the ancient British and Roman periods survive in Surrey. There are a number of and in various locations, mostly dating to the . Remains of exist at , , Anstiebury (near Capel), Dry Hill (near Lingfield), St Ann's Hill () and St George's Hill (). Most of these sites were created in the 1st century BC and many were re-occupied during the middle of the 1st century AD. Only fragments of Stane Street and , the which crossed the county, remain.

Anglo-Saxon elements survive in a number of Surrey churches, notably at Guildford (St Mary), Godalming (St Peter & St Paul), Stoke D'Abernon (St Mary), , , Compton and Albury (in Old Albury).Nairn, Pevsner and Cherry, The Buildings of England: Surrey, pp. 91, 166, 255–256, 273, 465, 484–485, 529.

Numerous medieval churches exist in Surrey, but the county's parish churches are typically relatively small and simple, and experienced particularly widespread destruction and remodelling of their form in the course of Victorian restoration. Important medievalSee their highest grade I listings when searching for the places on the English Heritage Listed Buildings map church interiors survive at , Lingfield, Stoke D'Abernon, Compton and . Large monastic churches fell into ruin after their institutions were dissolved, although fragments of and survive. Southwark Priory, no longer in Surrey has survived, though much altered, and is now Southwark Cathedral. largely retains its medieval structure, while the keep and fragments of the curtain walls and palace buildings survive at .Nairn, Pevsner and Cherry, The Buildings of England: Surrey, pp. 25–35, 140–141, 166–168, 200–201, 347–349, 380–381, 465–469, 502–504.

Very little non-military secular architecture survives in Surrey from earlier than the 15th century. Wholly or partially surviving houses and barns from that century, with considerable later modifications, include those at , , Littleton, , Ewhurst, , Lingfield, , , , and Old Surrey Hall.Nairn, Pevsner and Cherry, The Buildings of England: Surrey, pp. 30, 35–36, 115–116, 177, 194, 227, 307, 344–345, 349–350, 352, 396, 403–404.

Major examples of architecture include the grand mid-century country houses of and Sutton Place and the old building of the Royal Grammar School, Guildford, founded in 1509.Nairn, Pevsner and Cherry, The Buildings of England: Surrey, pp. 278, 353–356, 476–479. A considerable number of smaller houses and of the 16th century are also still standing. From the 17th century the number of surviving buildings proliferates further. Abbot's Hospital, founded in 1619, is a grand edifice built in the Tudor style, despite its date. More characteristic examples of major 17th-century building include West Horsley Place, , and the Guildhall in Guildford.Nairn, Pevsner and Cherry, The Buildings of England: Surrey, pp. 36–40, 42–47, 275–276, 278–280, 459–460, 512–513.


Local government

History
The Local Government Act 1888 reorganised county-level local government throughout England and Wales. Accordingly, the administrative county of Surrey was formed in 1889 when the Provisional Surrey County Council first met, consisting of 19 and 57 . The county council assumed the administrative responsibilities previously exercised by the county's justices in . The county had revised boundaries, with the north east of the historic county bordering the City of London becoming part of a new County of London. These areas now form the London Boroughs of Lambeth, Southwark and Wandsworth, and the Penge area of the London Borough of Bromley. At the same time, the borough of Croydon became a , outside the jurisdiction of the county council.

For purposes other than local government the administrative county of Surrey and county borough of Croydon continued to form a "county of Surrey" to which a and Custos Rotulorum (chief ) and a High Sheriff were appointed.

Surrey had been administered from Newington since the 1790s, and the county council was initially based in the sessions house there. As Newington was included in the County of London, it lay outside the area administered by the council, and a site for a new county hall within the administrative county was sought. By 1890 six towns were being considered: Epsom, Guildford, Kingston, Redhill, and Wimbledon. In 1891 it was decided to build the new County Hall at Kingston, and the building opened in 1893,David Robinson, History of County Hall, Surrey County Council but this site was also overtaken by the growing London conurbation, and by the 1930s most of the north of the county had been built over, becoming , although continuing to form part of Surrey administratively. In 1960 the report of the Herbert Commission recommended that much of north Surrey (including Kingston and Croydon) be included in a new "". These recommendations were enacted in highly modified form in 1965 by the London Government Act 1963. The areas that now form the London Boroughs of Croydon, Kingston, Merton, and Sutton and that part of Richmond south of the River Thames, were transferred from Surrey to Greater London. At the same time part of the county of , which had been abolished by the legislation, was added to Surrey. This area now forms the borough of Spelthorne.

Further local government reform under the Local Government Act 1972 took place in 1974. The 1972 Act abolished administrative counties and introduced non-metropolitan counties in their place. The boundaries of the non-metropolitan county of Surrey were similar to those of the administrative county with the exception of and some surrounding land which was transferred to . It was originally proposed that the parishes of and would become part of West Sussex; however this met fierce local opposition and it was reversed by the Charlwood and Horley Act 1974.


Today
Following the elections of May 2021 the County Councillors' party affiliations were as follows:

As of 2 May 2019, the Conservative local councillors controlled 4 out of 11 councils in Surrey, the Liberal Democrats controlled Mole Valley, the Residents Associations of Epsom and Ewell controlled Epsom and Ewell, and the remaining 5 are in No Overall Control. Of the five No Overall Control councils, Elmbridge and Waverley were both run by coalitions of Residents and Liberal Democrats, Guildford was run by a Liberal Democrats minority administration, and Tandridge and Woking were both run by Conservative minority administrations.

The Conservatives held all 11 Parliamentary constituencies within the county borders.


Economy
The average wage in Surrey is bolstered by the high proportion of residents who work in financial services.

Surrey has more organisation and company headquarters than any other county in the UK. Electronics manufacturers Canon, , and are housed here, as are distributors , Future Electronics, and UK, the medico-pharma companies and and oil giant . Some of the largest fast-moving consumer goods multinationals in the world have their UK and/or European headquarters here, including , Procter & Gamble, , Nestlé, , and Colgate-Palmolive. NGOs including WWF UK & Compassion in World Farming are also based here.


Transport

Road
Three major motorways pass through the county. These are:
  • M25 (London Orbital) runs through the county, including a long cutting into the scarp of the and has 8 junctions in the county.
    It connects among others to the M1, M11, M20, M26, M4 and M40. The motorway runs close to and the motorway network can be used to access , and Airports and the motor vehicle service.
  • M3 crosses the north-west of the county. It connects London to and the South West of England having in Surrey the Sunbury-on-Thames, M25 interchange and the and junctions.
  • M23 (north–south) in effect connects to as the dualled A23 trunk road to the north and beyond . It has junction to a spur to on the Surrey/Sussex border. It has a Surrey junction, the M25 interchange, close to the Reigate M25 junction.

Other major roads include:


Rail
Much of Surrey lies within the London commuter belt with regular services into . South Western Railway is the sole train operator in Elmbridge, Runnymede, Spelthorne, Surrey Heath, Woking and Waverley, and the main train operator in the Borough of Guildford, running regular services into and regional services towards the south coast and South west. Southern is the main train operator in Mole Valley, Epsom and Ewell and Reigate and Banstead and the sole train operator in Tandridge, providing services into and .

There are many railway lines in the county, those of note include the Waterloo to Reading Line, South West Main Line, Portsmouth Direct Line, Sutton and Mole Valley Lines (from , itself on the Arun Valley Line from ) and the Brighton Main Line.

The Waterloo to Reading Line calls at , , and in Surrey. The South West Main Line calls at and up to six other Surrey stops including . The Portsmouth Direct Line is significant in linking , and to the South West Main Line at Woking. The Sutton and Mole Valley Lines link , , , to Waterloo via or London Victoria via . The Brighton Main Line calls at and before reaching either London Bridge or London Victoria. is on the east–west North Downs Line.

Consequently, the towns , , , , and and and Redhill, statistically the largest examples, are established commuter towns for Central London. The above routes have had a stimulative effect. The relative development of Surrey at the time of the led to today's retention of numerous other commuter routes except the , all with direct services to London, including:

  1. Chertsey Line linking the first two of the above national routes via and
  2. New Guildford Line via and from
  3. Hampton Court Branch Line to via from Surbiton
  4. Branch Line via Sunbury
  5. Ascot to Guildford Line via , , into Hampshire via Aldershot and back into Surrey to serve , and .
  6. calls at the far southwest Surrey town, .
  7. Epsom Downs Branch from Sutton and then Belmont in Greater London to and .
  8. Tattenham Corner Branch Line calls at , and .
  9. calls at and .
  10. Redhill to Tonbridge Line serves and .

The only diesel route is the east–west North Downs Line, which runs from Reading via Guildford, , and Redhill.

The major stations in the county are Guildford (8.0 million passengers), Woking (7.4 million passengers), Epsom (3.6 million passengers), Redhill (3.6 million passengers) and Staines (2.9 million passengers).


Air
Both (in the London Borough of Hillingdon) and (in Crawley Borough, West Sussex) have a perimeter road in Surrey. First Berkshire & The Thames Valley operates a coach service from Guildford and Woking to Heathrow Airport and there are early-until-late buses to nearby Surrey towns.

on the edge of Chobham and Ottershaw is from Woking town centre and operates as a private airfield with two training schools and is home to other aviation businesses.

Redhill Aerodrome is also in Surrey.


Education
The UK has a comprehensive, state-funded education system, accordingly Surrey has 37 state secondary schools, 17 Academies, 7 sixth form colleges and 55 state primaries. The county has 41 independent schools, including Charterhouse (one of the nine independent schools mentioned in the Public Schools Act 1868) and the Royal Grammar School, Guildford. More than half the state secondary schools in Surrey have sixth forms. Brooklands (twinned with a site in Ashford, Surrey), Reigate, Esher, Egham, Woking and Waverley host sixth-form equivalent colleges each with technical specialisations and standard sixth-form study courses. Brooklands College offers aerospace and automotive design, engineering and allied study courses reflecting the aviation and motor industry leading UK research and maintenance hubs nearby.


Higher education
  • The University of Surrey is based in
  • The University for the Creative Arts (UCA) has campuses in and
  • Royal Holloway, University of London is based in
  • The University of Law has a campus in Guildford
  • The Guildford School of Acting is located on the Surrey University campus


Emergency services
Surrey is served by the following emergency services:
  • Air Ambulance Kent Surrey Sussex
  • British Transport Police
  • South East Coast Ambulance Service
  • Surrey Fire & Rescue Service


Places of interest
Significant landscapes in Surrey include Box Hill just north of ; the Devil's Punch Bowl at and Common. southwest of in the is the second highest point in southeast England. and are expansive areas of ancient heathland south of run by the and Ministry of Defence. The Surrey Hills are an area of outstanding natural beauty ().

More manicured landscapes can be seen at Claremont Landscape Garden, south of (dating from 1715). There is also Winkworth Arboretum southeast of and Windlesham Arboretum near created in the 20th century. is home to the Royal Horticultural Society gardens. , historically part of Surrey but now in Greater London, features the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, as well as The National Archives for England & Wales.

There are 80 Surrey Wildlife Trust reserves with at least one in all 11 non-metropolitan districts.[2] Surrey Wildlife Trust reserves

Surrey's important country houses include the mansion of , built in the 1560s and , an 18th-century mansion in to the east of Guildford. Nearby in , was built in 1758 with interiors and a collection of keyboard instruments. south of is a regency villa with extensive grounds. On a smaller scale, in Hambledon near is a restored 16th-century worker's home. on the River Tillingbourne, is an 18th-century water-mill.

A canal system, the Wey and Godalming Navigations is administered at in , where an exhibition commemorates the work of the canal system and is home to a restored Wey barge, the Reliance. The Wey and Arun Canal is being restored by volunteers with hopes of a future full reopening.

at is the site of the sealing of in 1215.

Guildford Cathedral is a 20th-century cathedral built from bricks made from the clay of the hill on which it stands.

Museum recognises the motoring and aeronautical past of Surrey. The county is also home to the theme park.


Sport
  • makes its first appearance in history in Surrey, in a reference to the game being played at the Royal Grammar School, Guildford in the 16th century (see History of English cricket to 1696). Mitcham Cricket Club, formed in 1685 and the oldest documented club in the game's history, was within Surrey's borders until 1965. The Surrey County Cricket Club has been based at in , now part of , since its foundation in 1845. The club also uses in and in for some games. It was one of the original participants in the County Championship and has won the competition 19 times outright and once jointly, more than any other county except Yorkshire.
  • Epsom Downs Racecourse is the venue for the most prestigious event in British flat horse-racing, the , which has been held there most years since 1780. Surrey is also home to Lingfield, Kempton and Sandown Park Racecourses, presenting an unusually high concentration in one county.See List of horse racing venues
  • between Woking and Weybridge was the world's first purpose-built race circuit, opened in 1907. The headquarters of the team are at Woking. , the 1976 Formula 1 World Driver's Champion was born in Belmont, Sutton, then part of Surrey, in 1947.
  • The All England Lawn Tennis Club, venue for the Wimbledon Championships, and the headquarters of the Lawn Tennis Association were within Surrey until 1965.
  • Surrey's leading club, , currently compete in the National League 1, the third tier of English rugby. Harlequins F.C. and train at the Surrey Sports Park in Guildford.
  • Surrey is one of a handful of English counties with no teams in the top 92 football teams, the . Its leading team is Woking, currently playing in the fifth-tier National League.
  • Surrey is home to the team the , who compete in the top-tier Elite Ice Hockey League.
  • The team , based in Guildford, play in the top tier of British basketball, the British Basketball League.
  • The team , based in Guildford play in the Netball Superleague. They are the franchise for the Greater London area and the South East.
  • has been played in the county since before 1900 most notably as international venue ; by 2013 a 142nd co-existing Surrey golf course was in planning consultation; 141 were recorded by The Daily Telegraph newspaper.
  • Rowing clubs include Molesey (with an elite development programme hosting several leading crews), Walton, (one of the UK's top clubs in the junior category), Weybridge, Weybridge Ladies, Weybridge Mariners, Burway, Staines and Guildford whose top female quad boat won Henley Women's in 2012.
  • teams include , Friends Provident and Guildford International Volleyball Club (whose elite men's team has won the 1st of the 4 National Divisions), while twelve clubs in Surrey and three in south-west Greater London compete in the Surrey Volleyball League.


Surrey football clubs
The county has numerous football teams. In the Combined Counties League can be found the likes of , Badshot Lea, Banstead Athletic, , Chessington & Hook United, Cobham, Epsom & Ewell, , , , Frimley Green, Horley Town, Knaphill, Mole Valley SCR, Molesey, Sheerwater, Spelthorne Sports and Westfield; Lingfield play at the same level but in the Southern Combination; , , and play higher in the Southern League; equally Leatherhead, Merstham, Redhill, South Park, , and Walton and Hersham are in the ; Dorking Wanderers and Woking are currently the highest ranked Surrey based clubs, playing in the National League.

Chelsea F.C. practice at the Cobham Training Centre located in the village of Stoke d'Abernon near Cobham, Surrey. The training ground was built in 2004 and officially opened in 2007.


In popular culture
The county has also been used as a film location. In the 1976 film The Omen, the scenes at the cathedral were filmed at Guildford Cathedral.

The county is the setting of the fictional town of Little Whinging, where was raised in the books by .

(1997). 9780747532699, Scholastic.


Notable people

Royal Family
  • Lady Louise Windsor (born 2003), daughter of Prince Edward, Duke of Edinburgh and granddaughter of Queen , was born in Frimley Park Hospital.
  • James, Earl of Wessex (born 2007), son of Prince Edward, Duke of Edinburgh and grandson of Queen , was born in Frimley Park Hospital.


Literature
Besides its role in Elizabethan and Jacobean theatre, many important writers have lived and worked in Surrey.

  • The Owl and the Nightingale, one of the earliest poems; Nicholas of Guildford is mentioned in it several times.
    (2025). 9780859896900, University of Exeter Press.
  • (1572–1631) lived and worked for a time in .
  • (1620–1706) was born and spent much of his life in Wotton, and is buried there.
  • (1659/61–1731) was educated in Dorking.
  • (1763–1835) was born and raised in Farnham, later lived in Wyke, where he died, and is buried in Farnham; Surrey features prominently in his .
  • Thomas Love Peacock (1785–1866) lived in , then part of Middlesex, now in Surrey.
  • Benjamin Disraeli (1804–1881) wrote Coningsby while living in Dorking.
  • (1809–1892) spent the latter part of his life, and died, in .
  • (1812–1870) wrote part of The Pickwick Papers in Dorking, and refers to the town in the novel.
  • (1812–1889) was born in , then part of Surrey.
  • (1819–1880) wrote most of while living in Haslemere.
  • (1822–1888) lived in , then part of Middlesex, now in Surrey.
  • (1828–1909) lived at Box Hill.
  • (1832–1898) spent much of his time at his sisters' home in Guildford, where he wrote Through the Looking-Glass; he died there and is buried in the town.
  • (1836–1865) lived for several years in Epsom, where her step-father was clerk of the racecourse.
  • George Bernard Shaw (1856–1950) lived in Woking and later in , where he wrote Caesar and Cleopatra.
  • Arthur Conan Doyle (1859–1930) lived and wrote many of his books in Hindhead and served as deputy lieutenant of Surrey; the county forms a setting for several of the stories.
  • J. M. Barrie (1860–1937) lived in , and based The Boy Castaways, which later evolved into , in the nearby countryside.
  • H. G. Wells (1866–1946) wrote The War of the Worlds while living in Woking; much of northern Surrey is laid waste in the course of the story.
  • (1867–1933) was born in Kingston and the is partly set in the area.
  • E. M. Forster (1879–1970) lived and wrote in and .
  • P. G. Wodehouse (1881–1975) was born in Guildford and baptised there in St Nicolas' Church.
  • A. P. Herbert (1890–1971) was born in .
  • (1894–1963) was born and raised in and his ashes are interred at Compton; the end of Brave New World is set in Surrey.
  • (1895–1985) was born in Wimbledon, then part of Surrey.
  • Rosemary Sutcliff (1920–1992) was born in .
  • (1924–2018) was born in Richmond, then part of Surrey.
  • (1929–1994) grew up in Stoneleigh.
  • (born 1954) grew up in Guildford.


Arts and sciences
  • William of Ockham (), philosopher, most famous for "Occam's Razor", came from Ockham.
  • (1766–1834), pioneer of , was born and raised in Westcott, and later lived in Albury.
  • (1815–1852), mathematician, lived at .
  • Eadweard Muybridge (1830–1904), photographer, was born and raised in Kingston, then part of Surrey.
  • (1843–1932), garden designer, lived for much of her life at Munstead near Godalming, created significant gardens in Surrey and is buried in .
  • Ethel Frances Chawner (1866-1943) Entomologist born in Surrey who lived there 1866-1888.
  • (1869–1944), architect, grew up in ; many of his early works were built in Surrey, including collaborations with Gertrude Jekyll.
  • Ralph Vaughan Williams (1872–1958), composer, grew up at Leith Hill and later lived in Dorking.
  • (1907–1989), actor, was born in Dorking.
  • (1907–1991), actress, was born and raised in Croydon, then part of Surrey.
  • (1908–1991), film director, was born in Croydon.
  • (1912–1954), mathematician and pioneer of , lived for much of his early life in Guildford.
  • (1923–2016), actor and screenwriter, was born in Barnes, then part of Surrey.
  • (1934–2013), actor, was born in , then part of Surrey.
  • (1936–2020), comedian and actor, was born and raised in Croydon.
  • (born 1963), actress, was born and raised in .
  • (born 1963), artist, was born in Croydon.
  • Tom Holland (actor) (1996) came from Kingston Upon Thames


Military
  • Edward Hawke, 1st Baron Hawke (1705–1781), admiral, lived at Sunbury-on-Thames, then part of Middlesex, now in Surrey.
  • F. C. Ricardo (1852–1924), colonel, was born in .
  • Francis Aylmer Maxwell (1871–1917), brigadier, was born in Guildford.
  • (1881–1955), admiral, was born in Barnes, then part of Surrey.
  • Martin Dunbar-Nasmith (1883–1965), admiral, was born in Barnes, then part of Surrey.
  • Bernard Freyberg, 1st Baron Freyberg (1889–1963), lieutenant-general, was born in Richmond, then part of Surrey.
  • Alfred Victor Smith (1891–1915), lieutenant and recipient, was born in Guildford.
  • (1910–1995), brigadier, was born in Richmond, then part of Surrey.
  • Gilbert White (1912–1977), brigadier, was born in .
  • (1915–2000), flight lieutenant and Colditz escapee, lived for most of his life after the Second World War in Sunbury-on-Thames.
  • John Cunningham (1917–2002), air ace, was born in , then part of Surrey.


Popular music
The "Surrey Delta" produced many of the musicians in 1960s British blues movements. The Rolling Stones developed their music at the Crawdaddy Club in Richmond.

  • opened their White Riot Tour at the Guildford Civic Hall (now ) on 1 May 1977.
  • recorded their first two albums - Outlandos d'Amour (1978) and Regatta de Blanc (1979) at Surrey Sound Studios in .
  • (1959–2000) was born in Croydon, then part of Surrey.
  • , also known as Fatboy Slim (born 1963), grew up in Reigate.
  • , also known as Call Me Loop (born 1991), was born in Surrey.
  • members , Ross Phillips and are from Staines-upon-Thames.
  • , lead singer of rock band the Darkness, was born in Surrey.
  • Disclosure members Guy and Howard Lawrence are from Reigate.
  • (1943–1976) was born and grew up in Richmond, then part of Surrey.
  • (born 1947) was born and grew up in Richmond, then part of Surrey.
  • (born 2004) was born in Guilford, Surrey.


Sport
  • Max Hall (born 1975), cricketer
  • (1969–2024), cricketer, was born in and played for Surrey.
    (2005). 9780007205974, CollinsWillow. .
  • (born 1995), footballer, was born in Kingston upon Thames
  • (born 2003), footballer
  • (born 2002), Wheelchair Tennis Player, was born in Redhill, Surrey


See also
  • List of Lord Lieutenants of Surrey
  • List of High Sheriffs of Surrey
  • Custos Rotulorum of Surrey—Keepers of the Rolls
  • Surrey (UK Parliament constituency)—Historical list of MPs for Surrey constituency
  • Surrey (carriage)
  • Healthcare in Surrey
  • Surrey Police and Crime Commissioner


Notes

Bibliography


External links

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