Mulquinerie is a landmark of French fashion and Master craftsman, and is the art of weaving and Trade fine fabrics composed exclusively of linen: whether plain Flax, 'linon' or batiste. A 'mulquinier' was the artisan textile Textile design and Weaving as well as the merchant of canvases. The mulquiniers were not only a subcategorization of the tisserand(e) artists (hand loom weavers; French pronunciation: tisʀɑ̃) but were also the traders of their own craft. This activity was predominantly developed within villages as a substantial rural proto-industry, hence mulquiniers working on in their home' basement while breathing from "bahottes" or "blocures" to obtain the most propitious Humidity.
Origins and etymology
Mulquinerie originated in the 17th and 18th centuries from metropolitan France’s Northern Departments now constituting the
Hauts-de-France region
(French pronunciation: Picard language: Heuts-d'Franche),
following the territorial reform of French Regions (2014) from a merger of Nord-Pas-de-Calais and
Picardy. The activity was ubiquitous in the towns of the former Nord-Pas de Calais Mining Basin, the
Cambrai sub-province or the Thiérache including Saint-Vaast-en-Cambrésis, Saint-Hilaire-lez-Cambrai,
Haspres, Saint-Quentin or
Neuvilly. This also included
Caudry, the
Medieval art capital city of
Lace, which remains (in collaboration with
Calais) the only town in
France where lace is still made.
Etymology, ‘mulquinier’ is derived from the Germanic term "mollquin" meaning 'thin canvas'. First traces of the term are encountered in the 'Charter of the mulquiniers of Valenciennes' in 1413 through the use of the term 'molekinier'. Among the oldest mulquinerie ancestries are the Lecygne and Legueil families tracing back beyond the 17th century being Dyeing, , Embroidery, patternmakers or Hand spinning.
Symbolism and patronage
The French mulquiniers' patron was
Saint Veronica of
Jerusalem whose representations they celebrated biannually (
summer and
winter) as in many pious Christian countries.
Gallery
File:Saint Veronica with the Veil LACMA M.84.20 (1 of 2).jpg
File:Master of Guillebert de Mets (Flemish, active about 1410 - 1450) - Saint Veronica Displaying the Sudarium - Google Art Project.jpg
File:Ohmenheim St. Elisabeth Veronica 559.jpg
File:La Verónica mostrando la Santa Faz a la Virgen y San Juan (Museo del Prado).jpg
File:Derick Baegert - Christ Carrying the Cross and Veronica with the Sudarium - WGA1143.jpg
File:St. Veronica with the Holy Kerchief - Meister der Heiligen Veronika.jpg
File:Lieven van Lathem (Flemish - Saint Veronica - Google Art Project.jpg
Expertise or archival materials
Bibliography
-
René Debrie (dir.), La Picardie, Paris, Les Éditions d'Organisation, coll. peuple et pays de France, 1981 ().
-
Didier Terrier, " Mulquiniers et gaziers: les deux phases de la proto-industrie textile dans la région de Saint-Quentin. 1730–1850 article, Revue du Nord, 1983.