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Mohair (pronounced ) originated from the Arabic word مهير and it is a fabric or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat (not Angora wool from the fur of the Angora rabbit). Both durable and resilient, mohair is lustrous with high sheen, and is often blended to add these qualities to a textile. Mohair takes dye exceptionally well. It feels warm in winter due to excellent insulating properties, while moisture-wicking keeps it cool in summer. It is durable, naturally elastic, flame-resistant and crease-resistant. It is considered a luxury fiber, like cashmere wool, Alpaca fiber, angora, and silk, and is more expensive than most sheep's wool.
Mohair is composed mostly of keratin, a protein in the hair, wool, horns and skin of all mammals, but mohair's special properties are unique to the Angora goat. While it has scales like wool, they are not fully developed, thus, mohair feels different from common or standard wool.
Mohair fiber is approximately 25–45 micrometres in diameter.
The term mohair is sometimes used to describe the material in the folding roof on convertible cars. In this case mohair refers to a denim-like canvas.
South Africa is the world's largest mohair producer as of 2013, supplying around 50% of the total world production., yet as of 2024 some people believe that majority production has moved to Lesotho. However, the latter statement is controversial and requires proper scrutiny. Due to animal cruelty in the South African farms, Zara, H&M, Gap, Topshop, Lacoste, and many more will no longer sell mohair clothing.
In about 1820, raw mohair was first exported from Turkey to England, which then became the leading manufacturer of mohair products. The Yorkshire mills spun yarn that was exported to Russia, Germany, Austria, etc., as well as woven directly in Yorkshire.
Until 1849, the Turkish province of Ankara was the sole producer of Angora goats. Charles V is believed to be the first to bring Angora goats to Europe. Due to the great demand for mohair fiber, throughout the 1800s there was a great deal of crossbreeding between Angora goats and common goats. The growing demand for mohair further resulted in attempts on a commercial scale to introduce the goat into South Africa (where it was crossed with the native goat) in 1838, the United States in 1849, Australia from 1856 to 1875, and later still New Zealand. In 1849, Angora goats made their way to America as a gift from Turkey.
During the 1960s, a blend of mohair and wool suiting fabric known as Tonik or Tonic was developed in England. This had a shiny, color-changing appearance and was popular among and the mod subculture. Gentlemans Gazette Similar suits were worn by , , and fans of ska punk and two tone music during the early to mid-1980s. Chanting down Babylon American counterculture
Today South Africa is the largest mohair producer in the world, with the majority of South African mohair being produced in the Eastern Cape. The United States is the second-largest producer, with the majority of American mohair being produced in Texas. Turkey also produces good-quality mohair. Because the goats are sheared once a year (different from South Africa), Turkey produces the longest mohair of the world.
In December 2006 the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 to be the International Year of Natural Fibres, so as to raise the profile of mohair and other .
Mohair is a very soft yarn when compared with other natural and synthetic fibers. Due to mohair's lacking prominent, protruding scales along the hair's surface, it is often blended with wool or alpaca. Blending the heavily scaled wool helps the smooth mohair fibers hold their shape and stick together when spun into yarn. Mohair is also valued for certain other unique characteristics: it is warmer than other fibers, even when used to make a light-weight garment, and is often blended with wool for this reason; and mohair fibers have a distinctive luster created by the way they reflect light. Combined with mohair's ability to absorb dyes exceptionally well, pure mohair yarns are usually recognizable for their vivid, saturated colours.
Fibers from young goats are softest and are used to manufacture yarn for clothing. Fibers from mature goats are used to produce such things as rugs and carpets. Mohair is also used in Ski skins for randonnée skiing and ski touring. The mohair is used in a carpet allowing the skier an appropriate ascension method without sliding downhill.
In the Song "The Boy from New York City," first recorded by The Ad Libs, and made popular by The Manhattan Transfer, the lines "And he's cute In his mohair suit" appear.
In the Tom Waits song "Jockey Full of Bourbon", the jockey claims to have, "two pair of pants and a mohair vest."
In the Seinfeld episode "The Sniffing Accountant", Jerry's mohair sweater figures prominently into the plot.
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