Grosgrain ( ,[Kate Heinz Watson, Textiles and Clothing American School of Home Economics, Chicago: 1907: pp 91 [1]] and is known for being a firm, close-woven, fine-corded fabric.
"Grosgrain" is commonly used to refer to a heavy, stiff ribbon of silk or nylon[Cheney Brothers, James Chittick, Emanuel Anthony Posselt, Berlitz Schools of Languages, A glossary of silk terms, including a short history of silk: its origin, culture and manufacture Cheney Brothers: 1915]
Etymology
Grosgrain is both a direct
French language loan word and a folk corruption of the French word grogram.
[Joseph Shipley, Origins of English Words, JHU Press: 2001 , 671 pages: pp 121] Grogram, originally gros gram (appeared in literature in 1562), is defined as a coarse, loosely woven fabric of
silk, silk and
mohair, or silk and
wool.
[ Merriam-Webster's collegiate dictionary, Merriam-Webster Inc: pp 551] The adjective gros means thick or coarse, originally from the
Old French gros, itself derived from the
Latin grossus.
[Ernest Weekley, An Etymological Dictionary of Modern English, Courier Dover Publications: 1967, : pp 668] Grain is derived from Old French graine, itself derived from the Latin grana (plural of granum) – seed or in some contexts .
["Grosgrain". The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989.]
Thus gros gram, grogram and grosgrain are all one and the same: a large grain - hence coarse - texture fabric.[Charles Talbut Onions, George Washington Salisbury Friedrichsen, R. W. Burchfield, The Oxford dictionary of English etymology, Clarendon P.: 1966: 1025 pages]
The term grog, meaning alcohol, is related to the term grogram. In the 1740s, Admiral Edward Vernon, who was known as "Old Grog" because of the grogram cloak he wore, introduced the rum ration in the British Royal Navy. It is from his attire that the naval term grog is derived.
Moire
Moire is a waved or watered effect produced especially on grosgrain silk and woolen moreen via engraved rollers and high pressure on carded material. The result is a peculiar luster which works best when made from a corded fabric like grosgrain.
During the Middle Ages, moire was held in high esteem and was, as currently, used for women's dresses, for capes, and for facings, trimmings, etc.[William Dooley, Textiles for Commercial, Industrial and Domestic Arts Schools, D. C. Heath & Company: 1910: pp. 223 [2]]
Use in clothing
History
Throughout the 17th century, grosgrain
fabric was used as the fabric (corpus) for many garments, including waistcoats, jackets, petticoats, breeches, sleeves, jerkins and many other items of clothing, as a cheaper alternative for the lower socio-economic demographic than fine-woven silk or wool.
Factories in America started to produce grosgrain silk in the late 19th century.
[Zelma Bendure, Gladys Bendure Pfeiffer, America's fabrics: origin and history, manufacture, characteristics and uses, The Macmilln Company: 1946, 688 pages]
Throughout the 1920s, the term grosgrain seems to have remained true to original definition as a garment fabric.[Ellen Beers McGowan, Charlotte Augusta Waite, A.. Textiles and clothing, Macmillan: 1919: 268 pages] However, during the 1920s, it fell out of favor as a garment fabric, and was defined identically to contemporary terminology as a grosgrain ribbon.
Structural uses
Lustrous grosgrain is used extensively to join female semi-detached clothing articles such as bodices to skirts and similar, where this necessary joint may be visible.
[ McCall's Sewing Book, Random House: 1968: 198, 224] Ribbed grosgrain may be used similarly to
twill tape for internal
and reinforcements. Grosgrain ribbon is often used for facings and for waistbands.
McCall's
Sewing Book states: "grosgrain ribbon is used with any heavy fabric to reduce bulk", though it may be the word "bulk" is used in the sense of outward appearance, rather than actual
mass. McCall elaborates: "grosgrain is used to finish the back of novelty braid or to face the back of any fabric belt."
[ McCall's Sewing Book, Random House: 1968, 308 pages: pp 226]
Evening wear
As a more subtle option to
lustrous satin, grosgrain is very popular with evening wear, used on the facings of lapels of most
and high-end
and
tuxedos. Grosgrain is traditionally used to
hem and highlight the cut of
, collars and visible outermost edges of the formal
frock coat and the later
morning coat.
[Natalie Rothstein, Victoria and Albert Museum, Madeleine Ginsburg, Victoria and Albert Museum. Dept. of Textiles and Dress, Avril Hart, Philip Barnard, Valerie D. Mendes, Four hundred years of fashion: The Victoria and Albert Museum: Department of Textiles and Dress, Edition 2, Victoria and Albert Museum: 1992, , 176 pages, pp 174] Grosgrain is preferred over satin for practicality—it is more durable than silk or satin, as the fabric does not snag as easily.
Grosgrain is also used for matching accessories such as
and
, though these are often in
barathea to complement the main suiting.
Millinery
Grosgrain is also used in
Hatmaking. Grosgrain ribbons are popular for use in ribbon decorations for
, however, grosgrain is most notably used in
, fedora hats, and
, or as the trimming band on the Homburg.
[Zelma Bendure, Gladys Bendure Pfeiffer, America's fabrics: origin and history, manufacture, characteristics and uses, The Macmillan Company: 1946, 688 pages.]
Other uses
Book-binding
Grosgrain fabric and ribbon are common structural fabrics for the joining or reinforcement of
Bookbinding or in fine commercial and hobby
bookbinding and book restoration.
Graduation leis
When it comes to graduation leis, various types of ribbons can be used to create decorative accents and secure the flowers or other elements together. Grosgrain ribbon has a ribbed texture and is slightly thicker than
satin ribbon. It provides a more textured and structured appearance to the lei. Grosgrain ribbon is available in various colors and patterns.
[ What kind of ribbon is used for graduation leis Retrieved 16 February 2021]
Cargo and packing use
A particular characteristic of grosgrain ribbon is that the thicker weft resists longitudinal curling, and so it exerts an even pressure when tied around crushable materials.
Nylon grosgrain is often used as heavy-duty
webbing or binding around luggage, packs,
and other heavy-use "soft" goods. It is also used for securing
cargo. It can be dyed and is available in a variety of colours, though it is typically dyed black.
Early seat belts and military webbing during World War II was typically made of hemp, jute or linen grosgrain.
Craft
Grosgrain made out of cotton or low-cost
Synthetic fibre fibres such as
polyester are very common for gift-wrap ribbons, or for decorating and ornamenting scrapbooks and greeting cards. Grosgrain ribbon is used for a variety of different crafts as well, from bead making,
to book-binding,
trimming or embellishing,
as well as a multitude of other uses. Grosgrain ribbon is the primary ribbon material used in the hair bow industry.
Lanyards
Grosgrain woven from cotton or low-cost synthetic fibres such as
polyester are very popular for use as
lanyard, straps, and are often sold printed for use by large corporate companies as a marketing or branding tool.
Percussion
Polyester grosgrain in a width can be used as the tensioning material attaching the snares of a snare drum to the throw-off mechanism, with the ribbing providing good insurance against slippage. Some musicians use it in an attempt to lessen sympathetic snare buzz from external sources, as it will hold the tab ends of the snares closer to the head than string, providing more damping than mylar straps.
See also
Notes
