The cassock, or soutane, is a Christian clerical coat used by the clergy and Consecrated life of the Oriental Orthodox Churches, Eastern Orthodox Church and the Catholic Church, in addition to some clergy in certain Protestant denominations such as Anglicanism and Lutheranism. "Ankle-length garment" is the literal meaning of the corresponding Latin term, vestis talaris. It is related to the Religious habit traditionally worn by , , and .
The cassock derives historically from the tunic of classical antiquity that in ancient Rome was worn underneath the toga, and the chiton that was worn beneath the himation in ancient Greece. In religious services, it has traditionally been worn underneath , such as the alb.
In the West, the cassock is little used today except for religious services, save for traditionalist and those other Catholic clergy and religious who continue to wear the cassock as their standard attire. However, in many countries it was the normal everyday wear of the clergy until the 1960s, when it was largely replaced by clerical suits, distinguished from Laity dress by being generally black and by a black shirt incorporating a clerical collar.
In Japan, male gakuran school uniform were inspired by cassocks.
The word is a French word, coming from Latin subtana, the adjectival form of subtus (beneath).
The ordinary Roman cassock worn by Roman Catholic clerics (as distinct from that worn as choir dress) is black except in tropical countries, where because of the heat it is white and usually without shoulder cape (pellegrina). Coloured piping and buttons are added in accordance with rank: black for priests, purple for chaplains of His Holiness; amaranth red for bishops, protonotaries apostolic and ; and scarlet red for cardinals.
The 1969 Instruction on the dress of prelates stated that for all of them, even cardinals, the dress for ordinary use may be a simple black cassock without coloured trim.Instruction, 5 and 14
A band cincture or sash, known also as a fascia, may be worn with the cassock. The Instruction on the dress of prelates specifies that the two ends that hang down by the side have silk fringes, abolishing the sash with tassels.Instruction, 3, 15, 18, 19 A black faille fascia is worn by priests, deacons, and major seminarians, while a purple faille fascia is used by bishops, protonotaries apostolic, honorary prelates, and chaplains of His Holiness, when wearing a cassock with coloured trim. A black watered-silk fascia is permitted for priests attached to the papal household, a purple watered-silk fascia for bishops attached to the papal household (for example, ), and a scarlet watered-silk fascia for cardinals. The Pope wears a white watered-silk fascia, sometimes with his coat of arms on the ends.
In choir dress, chaplains of His Holiness wear their purple-trimmed black cassocks with a Surplice, but bishops, protonotaries apostolic, and honorary prelates use (with a cotta or, in the case of bishops, a rochet and mozzetta) cassocks that are fully purple (this purple corresponds more closely with a Roman purple and is approximated as fuchsia) with scarlet trim, while those of cardinals are fully scarlet with scarlet trim. Cardinals have the additional distinction of having both choir cassock sleeves and the fascia made of scarlet watered-silk. The cut of the choir cassock is still a Roman-cut or French-cut Roman cassock.
In the past, a cardinal's cassock was made entirely of watered silk, with a train that could be fastened at the back of the cassock. This train was abolished by the motu proprio Valde solliciti of Pope Pius XII with effect from 1 January 1953. With the same motu proprio, the Pope ordered that the violet cassock (then used in penitential periods and in mourning) be made of wool, not silk, Valde solliciti, III and in February 1965, under Pope Paul VI, a circular of the Sacred Ceremonial Congregation abolished the use of watered silk also for the red cassock.
An elbow-length shoulder cape, open in front, is sometimes worn with the cassock, either fixed to it or detachable. It is known as a pellegrina. It is distinct from the mozzetta, which is buttoned in front and is worn over a rochet.
The general rule of the Roman Catholic Church is that the pellegrina may be worn with the cassock by cardinals and bishops.Instruction on the Dress, Titles and Coats-of-Arms of Cardinals, Bishops and Lesser Prelates, 28 March 1969, 2 and 14 In 1850, the year in which he restored the Catholic hierarchy in England and Wales, Pope Pius IX was understood to grant to all priests there the privilege of wearing a replica in black of his own white caped cassock. Since then, the wearing of the pellegrina with the cassock has been a sign of a Roman Catholic priest in England and Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, although sometimes imitated by Anglican priests.
In his 1909 book, Costume of Prelates of the Catholic Church, John Abel Felix Prosper Nainfa proposed the use of the English word "simar", instead of the word "cassock", for the garment with shoulder cape, which he treated as distinct from the cassock proper. Others too have made the same distinction between the "simar" (with pellegrina) and the "cassock" (without), but many scholars disagree with Nainfa's distinction. More particularly, documents of the Holy See make no such distinction, using the term cassock or vestis talaris whether a pellegrina is attached or is not. Thus the 1969 instruction states that, for cardinals and bishops, "the elbow-length cape, trimmed in the same manner as this cassock, may be worn over it". Cassock, rather than simar, is the term that is usually applied to the dress of Popes and other Catholic ecclesiastics. The instruction also gives no support to Nainfa's claim that the cassock with shoulder cape should not be worn in church services, which moreover would be of difficult application, since the cassock with pellegrina is generally made as a single garment, with a non-detachable pellegrina.
Nainfa wrote that at that time the garment with shoulder cape was in Italian called a zimarra, a term, however, that in that language is today used rather of a historical loose-fitting overgown, quite unlike the close-fitting cassock with pellegrina worn by Catholic clergy,zimarra and similar to the fur-lined that was used in northern Europe.Zimarra Images of the historical zimarra as worn by women can be seen at "Dressing the Italian Way" and "The Italian Showcase".
In cold weather, the manto, an ankle-length cape with or without shoulder cape, or the greca, also known as the douillette, an ankle-length double-breasted overcoat, is traditionally worn over the cassock. For bishops and priests both the manto and greca are solid black in colour, while for the pope the manto is red and the greca is white.
The double-breasted cassock fastens at the shoulders on the opposing side of the breast and at the waist with one concealed button. The latter usually has a single small stem-button sewn at centre front about below the centre-front neck line which is used to secure the academic hood, worn for Choir Dress.
The single-breasted cassock worn by Anglicans traditionally has thirty-nine buttons as signifying the Thirty-Nine Articles, or as some would prefer "Forty stripes save one" – the punishment Saint Paul the Apostle says he received from the Jews.
Cassocks are often worn without a cincture and some opt for a buckled belt.
Black is the most common colour for priests (), Lay reader, vergers, and server cassocks. Lighter colours, such as white are used in tropical countries and some cathedrals have colours specific for their location. Piping is also used in the Anglican church to indicate position held with red being used for Deans, Archdeacons and Cathedral Canons. Bishops and often wear purple cassocks. This has been practise since the 19th century. More recently the Archbishops have chosen to wear black, this can be seen in the ministries of Rowan Williams and Justin Welby. A comparatively recent custom – since the reign of Edward VII – is that scarlet cassocks are properly worn only by Chaplains to the King and by members of Royal foundations such as Westminster Abbey and some Cambridge college chapels. They are also worn by the Head Master and Master of the King's Scholars of Westminster School. Nonetheless, many cathedral canons wear full crimson cassocks rather than with mere piping, as do many servers guilds and choirs due to longstanding practice.
Cassocks are sometimes also worn by readers, , and choir members, when they do this is the double-breasted style. Readers and altar servers usually wear black cassocks, but those worn by choirs are usually coloured.
Ministers (presbyters) of the Methodist Church of Great Britain also traditionally wear a double-breasted cassock (as in the evangelical Anglican tradition).
The Cassock is also worn occasionally in American Lutheran churches. In previous years, the cassock was worn in combination with a white surplice which almost entirely covered it. It is customary for a minority of clergy to wear it on special high holidays such as Good Friday and Ash Wednesday. Most commonly, Lutheran pastors wear an alb over a clerical shirt (with clergy collar). , most commonly a stole, are worn over the alb.
Presbyterians in Canada tend to follow the custom of the Church of Scotland, whereas Presbyterians in the United States typically wear an American Geneva gown over a sleeveless cassock or a non-cuffed gown over an Anglican or Roman style cassock. The American Geneva gown is often supplied with a cuff sewn into the double-bell sleeve (this innovation is a remnant of the cassock sleeve that was formerly worn underneath).
As is the practice in the Anglican churches, cassocks may be worn by others who are not ministers. Ordained elders and deacons, as they serve as worship leaders, readers, and administer communion may also wear cassocks which tend to be black. Those worn by choirs and other worship leaders are usually coloured (for instance, The Shadyside Presbyterian Church (U.S.A.) choir is dressed in red cassocks under white surplices).
(Always with pellegrina. However, Benedict XVI discontinued the pellegrina upon becoming pope emeritus.)
File:Cassock (Cardinal).svg|Cardinal
(Often with pellegrina.)
File:Cassock (Catholic Bishop).svg|Bishop
(Often with pellegrina.)
File:Cassock (Chaplain of His Holiness).svg|Chaplain of His Holiness, Protonary Apostolic, or Honorary Prelate
File:Cassock (Catholic Priest).svg|Priest, Deacon, or Seminarian
Anglican and Methodist
(cassock colour may vary)
File:Cassock (Anglican Priest).svg|Presbyter/Deacon/Layperson
cassock colour may vary if worn
by, for instance, a chorister
Lutheran
Presbyterian
Eastern Christian practice
Types of Eastern cassocks
Eastern Catholic and Orthodox examples
Kontorasson, and a Skufia.
File:Eastern Orthodox Priest.png|Priest (married)
File:Orthodox Monk-Priest.png|Hieromonk (celibate Priest)
File:Monk.png|Monk
File:Eastern Orthodox Reader.png|Reader/Chanter/Subdeacon/Deacon
dressed in the Zostikon
Oriental Orthodox examples
(monk)
Non-clerical 17th-century garment
External links
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