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Shahjahanabad, colloquially known as Old Delhi (Hindustani: Purāni Dillī), is an area in the district of , India. It was founded as a walled city and officially named Shahjahanabad in 1648, when decided to shift the Mughal capital from .

(2025). 9780195659832, Oxford University Press.
The construction of the city was completed in 1648, and it remained the capital of until its fall in 1857,History of Mughal Architecture By , Abhinav Publications, 2006City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi By William Dalrymple, Olivia Fraser, HarperCollins, 1993 when the (whose Indian capital was at ) took over as paramount power in the Indian subcontinent.

It serves as the symbolic heart of metropolitan Delhi and is known for its , , and its Islamic architecture; Jama Masjid being the most notable example, standing tall in the midst of the old city. Only a few are left and maintained.

Upon the 2012 trifurcation of the Municipal Corporation of Delhi, Old Delhi became administered by the North Delhi Municipal Corporation, but in May 2022 the city was re-unified under a new Municipal Corporation of Delhi.


History

Delhi Sultanate era
The site of Shahjahanabad is north of earlier settlements of Delhi. Its southern part overlaps some of the area that was settled by the in the 14th century when it was the seat of . The sultanates ruled from between 1206
(2025). 9780195659832, Oxford University Press.
and 1526, when the last was replaced by the .
(2025). 9780195659832, Oxford University Press.
The five dynasties were the Mamluk dynasty (1206–90), the (1290–1320), the (1320–1414), the (1414–51), (1451–1526) and the (1540-1556).


Mughal era
Delhi remained an important place for the Mughals, who built palaces and forts. Most importantly, ordered his famous chief architect Ustad Ahmad Lahori to build the walled city between 1638 and 1649, containing the and the .
(2015). 9788192747903, Black Taj Project. .
Delhi was one of the original twelve (imperial Mughal provinces), renamed Shahjahanabad in 1648, bordering , Agra, , and subahs. had the original of Delhi, after 1803, where a native regiment of Delhi was stationed, which was later shifted to Ridge area. East of Daryaganj was Raj ghat Gate of the walled city, opening at on .Fanshawe, p. 67 The first wholesale market of Old Delhi opened as the hardware market in in 1840, the next wholesale market was that of dry fruits, spices and herbs at , opening in 1850. The Phool Mandi (Flower Market) of Daryaganj was established in 1869, and even today, despite serving a small geographical area, it is of great importance due to dense population.
(2025). 9788131304419, APH Publishing. .


Colonial era
After the fall of the post 1857 revolt, the shifted the capital of British controlled territories in India to a less volatile city, in , where it remained until 1911. After the announcement of the change, the British developed Lutyens' Delhi (in modern ) just south-west of Shahjahanabad. At this point, the older city started being called Old Delhi, as New Delhi became the seat of a national government. It was formally inaugurated as such in 1931.


1876 description
In 1876, Carr Stephen described the city as follows:Carr Stephen, Archaeology and Monumental Remains of Delhi (Author, 1876), pp. 246-47

The no longer exists, although the location is still called Ghantaghar. The sarai of Jahanara Begum has been replaced by the city hall. The kotwal is now adjacent to Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib.


Demographics
After the construction of the city, many people from , , , , Western Uttar Pradesh, , , Jammu and Kashmir arrived for job opportunities and better living standards. The population of Old Delhi remains a mix of many different ethnic groups from the Indian subcontinent. While most areas are Muslim-dominated, (Hindustani) is the most spoken language.


Walls and gates
It is approximately shaped like a quarter cìrcle, with the as the focal point. The old city was surrounded by a wall enclosing about , with 14 gates:http://www.milligazette.com/Archives/2004/01-15Jun04-Print-Edition/011506200496.htm Dilli's gates and windows By Mahtab Jahan
  1. Nigambodh Gate: northeast, leading to historic on the
  2. Kashmiri Gate: north
  3. : north
  4. Kabuli gate: west
  5. Lahori gate: west close to the Sadar Railway station, Railway Colony, including the tomb of Syed Abdul Rehman Jilani Dehlvi. Rehnuma-e-Mazaraat Delhi, Mohammad Asim-ul-Qadri Sanbhli, Mohammad Book Depot, 2007, Old Delhi IndiaSunbhli, Mohammad Asim Al-Qadri, 2007, Rehnuma-e-Mazaraat Delhi Sharif, Muhammadi Book Depot, 523 Waheed Kutb Market Matia Mahal Jamai Mosque, Delhi-6, India, p.p. 284
  6. : southwest, leading to Ghaziuddin Khan's Madrassa and Connaught Place, a focal point in New Delhi
  7. : southwest, close to some pre-Shahjahan remains which got enclosed within the walls, including the tomb of Shah Turkman Bayabani.
  8. Delhi Gate: south leading to Feroz Shah Kotla and what was then older habitation of Delhi.

The surrounding walls, wide and tall, originally of mud, were replaced by red stone in 1657. In the period, the gates were kept locked at night. The walls have now largely disappeared, Showers bring down ASI-protected wall in Old Delhi , ExpressIndia (web-site), The Indian Express, 2003-07-19 but most of the gates are still present. The township of old Delhi is still identifiable in a satellite image because of the density of houses.

The , south of Delhi Gate and just outside the walled city, was originally constructed by Sher Shah Suri.


Streets and neighbourhoods
The main street, now termed , runs from the to . Originally a canal ran through the middle of the street.

North of the street, there is the mansion of , now called Bhagirath Palace. South of the street is , a dense residential area, beyond which is Jama Masjid. is a section that used to border the river at Rajghat and Zeenat-ul-Masjid.

The emerged from the Urdu Bazaar section of Old Delhi. The magazine and various other Urdu publications are the reason for this language staying alive.Ghalib, 1797-1869: In 2vols.Vol.1, Life and Letters, By Mirza Asadullah Khan Ghalib, Ghalib, Asad-Allāh Ḫān Mīrzā Ġālib, Ralph Russell, Khurshidul Islam Published by Allen & Unwin, 1969

Its main arteries are

  • Netaji Subhash Marg / Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg leading to (north and south)
  • /Khari Bawli Road (east and west)

Old Delhi is approximately bounded by these modern roads:

  • Nicholson Road (north)
  • Mahatma Gandhi Marg (east)
  • Shraddhananda Marg (west)
  • Jawaharlal Nehru Marg (south)


In literature
The engraving accompanying Letitia Elizabeth Landon's poem, "The City of Delhi", appears to show the Jama Masjid with an elephant on the open ground before it. She associates the city's past glories with tales of enchantment, namely 's The Tales of the Genii (Sir Charles Mansell). In Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1832, page 44.


Historical sites
Many of the historical attractions are in the area and the . In addition, Old Delhi also has:
  • Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a Gurudwara built to commemorate the martyrdom site of the ninth , Guru . It marks the site where the ninth Sikh Guru was beheaded on the orders of the on 11 November 1675 for rebelling against the forceful conversion of people from other religions (Hindus, Sikhs, Jains) to Islam.
  • Gaurishankar Temple
  • Mumtaz Mahal
  • Gali in Ballimaran is the site of 's , and that of Hakim Ajmal Khan
  • tomb near Kalan Masjid
  • Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque
  • Lal Mandir, Delhi's oldest Jain temple
  • , Asia's biggest spice market
  • Zinat-ul Masjid, Daryaganj built-in 1710 by one of Aurangzeb's daughters
  • Rajghat, cremation site memorial
  • St. James Church (near Kashmiri Gate) built-in 1836, Delhi's oldest church, built by Col. James Skinner.

Some of the historical mansions include:

  • 's Palace of 1806 now called Bhagirath Palace.
  • Naughara mansions in Kinari Bazaar, 18th-century Jain mansions.
  • Khazanchi haveli
  • Haveli Raja Jugal Kishore
  • Masterji Kee Haveli, Sita Ram Bazar
  • Haveli Sharif Manzil in Ballimaran is famous for its Aristocratic Hakims and their Unani practice, and that of Hakim Ajmal Khan
  • Haveli of , Gali , in Ballimaran
  • , Katra Neel
  • Haveli of , Lal Kuan Bazar
  • Haksar Haveli, Bazar Sitaram, where was married in 1916 to .
  • Haveli Naharwali, Kucha Sadullah Khan, where , former president of Pakistan was born
  • Kucha Chelan (Kucha Chehle Ameeran), where the Persian descent inhabited
  • Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib. Place where 9th Sikh Guru Guru Tegh Bahadur was executed.


Old Delhi cuisine
Old Delhi is well known for its cuisine. Old Delhi being the seat of the for over two centuries has led to it being the modern hub of . Karim's, a restaurant described as the city's most famous culinary destination, is near the Jama Masjid. The Gali Paranthe Wali and are also situated here. Chawri Bazaar is one of the oldest markets in Delhi, dating back to the 17th century and was before known as a hardware market, but is known nowadays for its wholesale paper products.

Old Delhi is also known for its street food. and areas have many street joints that sell spicy chaat (tangy and spicy snacks).


Culinary history
Old Delhi has certain identifiable landmarks of food. These include:


Paranthe Wali Gali
Pandit Gaya Prasad shifted from to in 1876, in search of a better life. In , he set up a single shop business selling hot . The product gained popularity to an extent that he required the aid of his family members for help in the production. Eventually, Paranthe wali Gali, the lane in which the original shop was came to house 16 of them. It is now run by the families of Pandit Gaya Prasad and his relatives. The sixth-generation continues to run four of the sixteen original shops that remain.


Karim's
Having been in the business of catering to , the family that runs it was displaced following the Revolt of 1857. In 1911, Haji Karimuddin moved back to Delhi with inspiration to open a Dhaba to cater to people coming to witness the coronation from all across the country. It was in 1913 that he established the Karim Hotel in Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid. Karim's exists here today to cater to the wants of people from all over the country and the world, being a major tourist attraction.


Kallu Nihari
is a traditional meat stew that is slowly cooked to preserve its taste and the tenderness of its ingredients. Kallu Nihari is a shop in Old Delhi that has served the dish exclusively since it was opened by the late Mohammed Rafiquddin (better known as Kallu Mian) in 1990. The shop, which is well known in the area, has served millions of portions.


Harnarains
Harnarain Gokalchand was a pickle and murabba shop that was originally established in by the name Harnarain Gopinath in 1857. It is often considered to be one of India's first commercially available pickle brands and was at the time India's largest food preservers. Their pickles and sharbat have been a household delicacy for over a century and a half, and have even served and . Having started from a small shop in Khari Baoli, Old Delhi, it has now become a global brand that goes by the name Harnarains International.


Banta
Characterised by a , is a drink that has survived in Old Delhi since 1872. The glass bottle in which this comes has a marble stopper, which is pushed into the bulbous neck of the bottle to unseal it. Engineer patented the design of the bottle in 1872 in London to effectively seal fizzy drinks.

The Banta bottles even contributed to the Indian National movement. This was so as protestors and rioters would often use these bottles as improvised cannons by adding calcium hydroxide to the mix. Thus, the bottles were banned in many cities across the country at some point before 1947.


Economic structure
Old Delhi has markets running through its streets. The area is vast and multiple products are being sold. Most of them are wholesale sellers and have been selling their products for many years. One such business is Gulab Singh Johrimal which was established in Dariba Kalan in 1816 mainly as an (perfume) manufacturing business. Since then they have diversified into compounding, incense and toilet soap manufacture. Their retail outlet in Chandni Chowk was started later on. Another such shop is manufacturers of pickles and preserves, located in . Under operation since 1944, it is one of the older shops currently located in Old Delhi. Some migrants sell products like clothes, fruits etc. The sellers of one product often form an association to serve their interests and negotiate with the local government and other official bodies. The Old Delhi area and its markets are governed by the Municipal Corporation of Delhi (MCD).


See also
  • History of Delhi
  • Timeline of Delhi
  • List of tourist attractions in Delhi


Further reading
  • Delhi, the emperor's city: rediscovering Chandni Chowk and its environs, by Vijay Goel. Lustre Press, 2003. .


Footnotes
  • (1998). 812061318X, Asian Educational Services. . 812061318X
  • (2025). 9780521522991, Cambridge University Press. .


External links

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