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The Pennines (), also known as the Pennine Chain or Pennine Hills, are an mainly located in . Sometimes described as the " of England" because of its length and position, the range runs from and in the to in North East England. From the in the north, the range extends south through the , , , and to end near the valley of the .

(1975). 011880720X, HMSO. 011880720X
The Border Moors and , which lie beyond the Tyne Gap, are included in some definitions of the range.

The range is divided into two by the , a wide pass formed by the valleys of the rivers and . There are several spurs off the main Pennine range west into Greater Manchester and , comprising the Rossendale Fells, West Pennine Moors, and Bowland Fells.

(2014). 9781107626539, Alan G. Ogilvie. .
The and in are also sometimes considered to be Pennine spurs.
(2026). 9781852846503, Cicerone. .
(2026). 9780521203296, Cambridge University Press. .
The Pennines are an important water catchment area, with numerous in the head streams of the river valleys.

Most of the range is protected by national parks and national landscapes (formerly Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty). Running north to south, and including the Cheviots, the range is within Northumberland National Park, the North Pennines National Landscape, the Yorkshire Dales National Park, Nidderdale National Landscape, the Forest of Bowland National Landscape, and the . The only significant unprotected area is that between and Marsden.

Britain's oldest long-distance footpath, the 268-mile (429 km) , runs along most of the Pennines.


Name
Various etymologies have proposed treating "Pennine" as a native / name related to ("head", "top", "chief", etc.). It did not become a common name until the 18th century, and may instead derive from modern comparisons with the Apennine Mountains, which run down the middle of in a similar fashion.

Following an 1853 article by Arthur Hussey, it has become a common belief that the name derives from a passage in The Description of Britain (), an infamous concocted by in the 1740s and accepted as genuine until the 1840s. In 2004, George Redmonds reassessed this, finding that numerous respected writers passed over the origin of the mountains' name in silence even in works dedicated to the topological etymology of and . He found that the derivation from Bertram was widely believed and considered uncomfortable. In fact, Redmonds found repeated comparisons with the Italian Apennines going back at least as early as , many of whose placenames and ideas Bertram incorporated into his work. Bertram was responsible (at most) with popularizing the name against other contenders such as 's "English Andes". His own form of the name was the "Pennine Alps" ( Alpes Peninae), which today is used for of the continental . Those mountains (the area around the St. Bernard Pass) derive their name from the Latin Alpes Pœninæ whose name has been variously derived from the Carthaginians,, History of Rome, Book V, §35. a local god,, History of Rome, Book XXXI, §38. and peninus. The St. Bernard Pass was the pass used in the invasions of Italy by the and in 390 BC. The etymology of the themselves—whose name first referred to their northern extremity and then later spread southward—is also disputed but is usually taken to derive from some form of pen or ben ("mountain, head").

(2026). 9789004173361, Brill.

Various towns and geographical features within the Pennines have names of at least partly Celtic origin, including Pennington, Penrith, , , the River Eden, and . More commonly, local names result from and settlements. In Yorkshire, , and Cumbria, many words of origin, not commonly used in standard English, are part of everyday speech: for example, gill/ghyll (narrow steep valley), beck (brook or stream), (hill), and dale (valley).

(1984). 9780712603706, Century Publishing Co Ltd.
Northumbrian/borders terms are used in South Tynedale, , and Allendale, such as burn (stream), cleugh (ravine), hope (valley), law (hill) and linn (waterfall).


Geography
The northern Pennine range is bordered by the of the , and uplands of the Howgill Fells, Orton Fells, Border Moors and Cheviot Hills. The West Pennine Moors, Rossendale Valley and Forest of Bowland are western spurs, the former two are in the South Pennines. The Howgill Fells and Orton Fells are sometimes considered to be part of the Pennines, both inside the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The Pennines are fringed by extensive lowlands including the Eden Valley, West Lancashire Coastal Plain, , Vale of York, Humberhead Levels and the .

The main range of the Pennines start from its southern end at the in the Peak District.

(1963). 9787240005989, B.T. Batsford. .
The southern foothills of the range merge into the valley and of the , separating the range from the Midland Plains to the south. The Pennines continue northwards across the Peak District and adjoin the South Pennines approximately around the Tame Valley, and . The South Pennines are separated from the Forest of Bowland by the , and include the Rossendale Valley and West Pennine Moors in the west. The range continues further north into the which separates the Yorkshire Dales from the South Pennines to the south and the Forest of Bowland to the southwest. The main range then continues northwards across the Yorkshire Dales to the where it adjoins the North Pennines. The range continues into its northern end at the , separating it from the Border Moors and Cheviot Hills across the Anglo-Scottish border.

Although the Pennines cover the area between the Peak District and the Tyne Gap, the Pennine Way affects perceptions of the southern and northern extents of the defined area. The southern end of the Pennines is said to be in the High Peak of at , the start of the Pennine Way, but the main range continues south across the Peak District to the Weaver Hills, with its foothills merging into the Trent Valley. This encompasses eastern , northern and eastern , and southern Derbyshire. Conversely, the Border Moors and Cheviot Hills, separated by the Tyne Gap and to the south, along which run the A69 and Hadrian's Wall, and to the north, are not part of the Pennines but, perhaps because the Pennine Way crosses them, they are treated as such.

Most of the Pennine landscape is characterised by upland areas of high indented by more fertile river valleys, although the landscape varies in different areas. The Peak District consists of hills, plateaus and valleys, divided into the with moorlands and gritstone edges, and the with limestone gorges. The South Pennines is an area of hills and moorlands with narrow valleys between the Peak District and Yorkshire Dales. Bowland is dominated by a central upland landform of deeply incised gritstone covered with tracts of heather-covered moorland, and steep-sided wooded valleys linking the upland and lowland landscapes. The landscape is higher and more mountainous in the Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines. The Yorkshire Dales are characterised by valleys, moorlands and fells while the North Pennines consist of plateaus, moorlands, fells, edges and valleys, with most of the higher peaks in the west.


Elevation
Rising less than , the Pennines are , with most of the mountainous terrain in the north. The highest point is in eastern Cumbria, at and other principal peaks in the North Pennines are Great Dun Fell , , and . Principal peaks in the Yorkshire Dales include , , High Seat , Wild Boar Fell and . Principal peaks in the Forest of Bowland include Ward's Stone , Fair Snape Fell , and Hawthornthwaite Fell . Terrain is lower towards the south and the only peaks which exceed are and in the Peak District. Other principal peaks in the South Pennines and Peak District include Black Hill , , , Black Chew Head , and Winter Hill .


Drainage
For much of their length the Pennines are the main in northern England, dividing east and west. The rivers Eden, , and tributaries of the (including the , Tame and ) flow westwards towards the .

On the eastern side of the Pennines, the rivers Tyne, , and all drain directly to the . The , , , , , Calder and Don all flow into the Yorkshire Ouse, and reach the sea through the .

The flows around the southern end of the Pennines and northwards on the eastern side taking water from tributaries, principally the Dove and Derwent. The Trent drains the east and west sides of the southern Pennines, also reaching the North Sea through the Humber Estuary. The Trent and Ouse meet and enter the Humber at . Maximum discharge through the Humber can reach 1,500 m3/s (53,000 cu ft/s).


Climate
According to the Köppen classification, the Pennines generally have a temperate ( Cfb) like the rest of England, but the uplands have more precipitation, stronger winds and colder weather than the surrounding areas. Some of the higher elevations have a subpolar oceanic climate ( Cfc), which may border a ( ET) and subarctic climate ( Dfc) in areas like Great Dun Fell.

More snow falls on the Pennines than on surrounding lowland areas due to the elevation and distance from the coast; unlike lowland areas of England, the Pennines can have quite severe winters.

The northwest is amongst the wettest regions of England and much of the rain falls on the Pennines. The eastern side is drier than the west—the shields northeast England from rainfall that would otherwise fall there.

Precipitation is important for the area's biodiversity and human population. Many towns and cities are located along rivers flowing from the range and in northwest England the lack of natural aquifers is compensated for by reservoirs.

Water has carved out limestone landscapes in the North Pennines, Yorkshire Dales and Peak District, with gorges and caves present in the Yorkshire Dales and Peak District. In some areas, precipitation has contributed to poor soils, resulting in part in landscapes that characterize much of the range. In other areas where the soil has not been degraded, it has resulted in lush vegetation.

For the purpose of growing plants, the Pennines are in 7 and 8, as defined by the . Zone 8 is common throughout most of the UK, and zone 7 is the UK's coldest hardiness zone. The Pennines, Scottish Highlands, and are the only areas of the UK in zone 7.


Geology
The Pennines have been carved from a series of geological structures whose overall form is a broad whose axis extends in a north–south direction. The North Pennines are coincident with the and the Yorkshire Dales are coincident with the . In the south the Peak District is essentially a flat-topped dome.

Each of the structures consists of overlain with . The limestone is exposed at the surface in the North Pennines, Yorkshire Dales and the Peak District. In the Dales and the , limestone exposure has caused the formation of large cave systems and watercourses. In the Dales the caves or potholes are known as "pots" in the Yorkshire dialect. They include some of the largest caves in England at , more than deep and , deep. Titan in the Peak District, the deepest shaft known in Britain, is connected to in Castleton, Derbyshire, the largest cave entrance in the country. Erosion of the limestone has led to geological formations, such as the limestone pavements at .

Between the northern and southern areas of exposed limestone between and the is a belt of exposed gritstone. Here the shales and sandstones of the Millstone Grit form high hills occupied by covered with , , heather and coarse grasses; page 4 and page 5, Marginal Upland Grazing Sutton Moor, Domesday Reloaded, BBC 1986 the higher ground is uncultivable and barely fit for pasture.


History
The Pennines contained settlements, and evidence remains of settlement including many and , such as Long Meg and Her Daughters.

The uplands were controlled by the tribal federation of the , made up of small tribes who inhabited the area and cooperated on defence and external affairs. They evolved an early form of kingdom. During , the Brigantes were dominated by the Romans who exploited the Pennines for their natural resources including the wild animals found there.

The Pennines were an obstacle for expansion westwards, although it appears the Anglo-Saxons travelled through the valleys. During the Dark Ages the Pennines were controlled by Celtic and Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. It is believed that the north Pennines were under the control of the kingdom of .

During Norse times the Pennines were settled by Viking Danes in the east and Norwegian Vikings in the west. The Vikings influenced place names, culture and genetics. When England was unified the Pennines were incorporated. The mix of Celtic, Anglo-Saxon and Viking heritage resembled much of the rest of and its culture developed alongside its lowland neighbours in northwest and northeast England. The Pennines were not a distinct political , but were divided between neighbouring counties in northeast and northwest England; a major part was in the West Riding of Yorkshire.


Demography
The Pennine region is sparsely populated by English standards. Larger population centres are in the foothills and lowlands fringing the southern Pennine range, such as , Chesterfield, Halifax, , , , Bury, , Middleton, and but most of the northern Pennine range is thinly populated. The cities of , , , , , and are also in the surrounding foothills and lowlands. The Pennines contain the highest village in the United Kingdom, Flash, at , near the southern end of the range in .


Economy
The main economic activities in the Pennines include , , finance and . In the , tourism is the major local employment for park residents (24%), with manufacturing industries (19%) and quarrying (12%) also being important while 12% are employed in agriculture. Limestone is the most important mineral quarried, mainly for roads and cement, while other extracted materials include shale for cement and for building stone. The springs at Buxton and Ashbourne are exploited to produce bottled and there are approximately 2,700 farms in the National Park.
(2026). 017444706X, . 017444706X
The are predominantly industrial, with the main industries including textiles, quarrying and mining, while other economic activities within the South Pennines include tourism and farming.

Although the Forest of Bowland is mostly rural, the main economic activities in the area include farming and tourism.

(2026). 9781351921640, Routledge. .
In the , tourism accounts for £350 million of expenditure every year while employment is mostly dominated by farming, accommodation and food sectors. There are also significant challenges for managing tourism, farming and other developments within the National Park. The main economic activities in the include tourism, farming, timber and small-scale quarrying, due to the rural landscape.


Transport
Gaps that allow west–east communication across the Pennines include the Tyne Gap between the Pennines and the Cheviots, through which the A69 road and Tyne Valley railway link Carlisle and Newcastle upon Tyne. The A66 road, its summit at , follows the course of a road from to Penrith through the Gap between the Eden Valley in Cumbria and in County Durham. The links Lancashire and Yorkshire via the valleys of the and . Other high-level roads include , named from near its summit, between in and and the A684 road from to Hawes via which reaches .

Further south the A58 road traverses the between and Greater Manchester reaching between Littleborough and , while the A646 road along the Calder Valley between and Halifax reaches following valley floors. In the Peak District the A628 Woodhead road links the M67 motorway in Greater Manchester with the M1 motorway in and is crossed by the A6024 road, whose highest point is near Holme Moss transmitting station between and .

The Pennines are traversed by the M62 motorway, the highest motorway in England at on Windy Hill near Junction 23.

Three trans-Pennine canals built during the Industrial Revolution cross the range:

  • The Huddersfield Narrow Canal connects in the east with in the west. When it reaches Marsden, it passes under the range through the Standedge Tunnel to Diggle. Fortnightly during the summer season, one can pass through the tunnel on a public narrowboat.
  • The crosses the Pennines via , connecting the market town of with Manchester.
  • The Leeds and Liverpool Canal, the longest and most northerly, crosses the Pennines via , Burnley, and connecting in the east with in the west.

The first of three was completed by the Sheffield, Ashton-Under-Lyne and Manchester Railway in 1845, engineered by and . At the time of its completion in 1845, Woodhead 1 was one of the world's longest railway tunnels at a length of 3 miles 13 yards (4,840 m); it was the first of several trans-Pennine tunnels including the Standedge and tunnels, which are only slightly longer. The first two tunnels were replaced by Woodhead 3, which was longer at 3 miles 66 yards (4860m). It was bored for the overhead electrification of the route and completed in 1953. The tunnel was opened by the transport minister Alan Lennox-Boyd on 3 June 1954. It was designed by Sir & Partners. The line was closed in 1981.

The London and North Western Railway acquired the Huddersfield and Manchester Railway in 1847 and built a single-line tunnel parallel to the canal tunnel at Standedge with a length of 3 miles, 57 yards (4803 m). Today rail services along the Huddersfield line between Huddersfield and Victoria and Piccadilly stations in are operated by TransPennine Express and Northern. Between 1869 and 1876 the built the Settle-Carlisle Line through remote, scenic regions of the Pennines from near Settle to Carlisle passing Appleby-in-Westmorland and other settlements, some a distance from their stations. The line has survived, despite difficult times and is operated by Northern Rail.

The Trans Pennine Trail, a long-distance route for cyclists, horse riders and walkers, runs west–east alongside rivers and canals, along disused railway tracks and through historic towns and cities from to (). It crosses the north–south () at Crowden-in-Longdendale.


National Parks and AONBs
Considerable areas of the Pennines are protected as UK national parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs). Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, also known as "national landscapes", are afforded much the same protection as national parks. The national parks within the Pennines are the and the with the Northumberland National Park sometimes also included.

The AONB just north of the Yorkshire Dales rivals the national park in size and includes some of the Pennines' highest peaks and its most isolated and sparsely populated areas. Other AONBs are east of the Yorkshire Dales, and the Bowland Fells, including , west of the Yorkshire Dales.

The only significant unprotected section is the area between and Marsden.


Language
The language used in pre-Roman and Roman times was . During the Early Middle Ages, the developed. Little evidence of Cumbric remains, so it is difficult to ascertain whether or not it was distinct from Old Welsh. The extent of the region in which Cumbric was spoken is also unknown.

During times the area was settled by Anglian peoples of and , rather than the of . remained in most areas of the Pennines longer than it did in the surrounding areas of England. Eventually, the Celtic tongue of the Pennines was replaced by early as Anglo-Saxons and Vikings settled the area and assimilated the Celts.

(2026). 113471145X, Routledge. . 113471145X

During the Scandinavian settlers brought their language, . The fusion of Norse influences into Old English was important in the formation of and hence Modern English, and many individual words of Norse descent remain in use in local dialects, such as that of Yorkshire, and in local place names.


Folklore and customs
The folklore and customs are mostly based on , and customs and folklore. Many customs and stories have their origin in Christianised pagan traditions. In the Peak District, a notable custom is , which has its origin in pagan traditions that became Christianised.
(2026). 9781466946521, Trafford Publishing. .


Flora
Flora in the higher Pennines is adapted to and subarctic landscapes and climates. The flora found there can be found in other areas of moorland in and some species are also found in areas of . In the Pennine millstone grit areas above an altitude of the topsoil is so acidic, pH 2 to 4, that it can grow only , , , and coarse grasses such as , and .
(2026). 9781852844851, Cicerone.
As the retreated c. 11,500 BC trees returned and archaeological can identify their species. The first trees to settle were willow, birch and juniper, followed later by alder and pine. By 6500 BC temperatures were warmer and woodlands covered 90% of the dales with mostly pine, elm, lime and oak. On the limestone soils the oak was slower to colonize and pine and birch predominated. Around 3000 BC a noticeable decline in tree pollen indicates that neolithic farmers were clearing woodland to increase grazing for domestic livestock, and studies at Linton Mires and find an increase in grassland species.
(2026). 9781905080052, Great Northern Books.
On poorly drained impermeable areas of millstone grit, shale or clays the topsoil gets waterlogged in winter and spring. Here tree suppression combined with the heavier rainfall results in up to thick. The erosion of peat still exposes stumps of ancient trees.

Limestone areas of the Pennines in the , Yorkshire Dales and have been designated as nature reserves or Important Plant Areas by the botanical conservation charity , and are nationally important for their wildflowers.


Fauna
Fauna in the Pennines is similar to the rest of England and Wales, but the area hosts some specialised species. Deer are found throughout the Pennines and some species of animals that are rare elsewhere in England can be found here. , which were common in Britain during the Ice Age and retreated to the cooler, more tundra-like uplands once the climate warmed up, were introduced to the area of the in the 19th century.

Large areas of heather moorland in the Pennines are managed for driven shooting of wild . The related and declining is still found in northern parts of the Pennines. Other birds whose English breeding strongholds are in the Pennines include golden plover, , , , merlin, , and ,

(1993). 9780856610752, T & A D Poyser.
though many of these are at the southern limit of their distributions and are more common in Scotland.


See also


External links

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