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Gulai () is a type of stew commonly found in the culinary traditions of Malaysia, Indonesia and other parts of Maritime Southeast Asia, including Brunei, Singapore and southern Thailand. Closely associated with both Malay cuisine and Padang cuisine, it is characterised by a rich, aromatic sauce made from coconut milk and a blend of ground spices, typically including turmeric, coriander, Chili pepper and other local aromatics. Gulai is usually prepared with meat, fish, offal or and is typically served with rice. In English language, it is sometimes described as Malay curry or Indonesian curry.
The origins of gulai can be traced to Indian cuisine introduced through Sea lane across the Indian Ocean. Over time, these foreign elements were adapted to local tastes with the incorporation of regional ingredients such as lemongrass, galangal, ginger and candlenut. This fusion gave rise to a distinctive style of curry-like stew in Maritime Southeast Asia. Similar culinary developments occurred in neighbouring regions, resulting in dishes such as Thai curry in Thailand and kroeung-based stews in Cambodia. Gulai, in particular, became an integral part of the food culture in both coastal and inland areas of the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra and Borneo. In Java, a local variant is commonly referred to as gule.
Regional interpretations of gulai vary in flavour, texture and ingredients, influenced by local preferences and culinary traditions. In Malaysia, variations range from the fiery masak lemak cili api of Negeri Sembilan to the durian-based gulai tempoyak found in Perak and Pahang. In Indonesia, versions tend to be thick and intensely spiced, while Javanese cuisine are lighter and more soupy. A related version known as guleh is also present in Javanese-Surinamese cuisine.
These culinary elements were gradually incorporated into local food traditions across both mainland and island Southeast Asia. In the Greater India of Funan, Indian influence played a key role in shaping early Cambodian culture through the introduction of religion, writing systems and artistic forms. According to archaeologist Dr. Ea Darith, these cultural elements were adopted selectively rather than imposed. Indian spices and cooking methods contributed to the development of kroeung, a characteristic Khmer people spice paste composed of galangal, turmeric, lemongrass and other local aromatics. When combined with prahok (fermented fish paste), kroeung forms the flavour base for many Cambodian dishes, such as Samlor machu (a kroeung-based sour beef soup).
In neighbouring Siam (modern-day Thailand), Indian traders and Buddhism introduced key aromatics such as tamarind, cumin and lemongrass. These ingredients formed the basis of Nam phrik, a type of thick spice paste that included components like lemongrass, fish sauce and peppercorns. Nam prik became a foundational element in numerous Thai cuisine, including early forms of Thai curry known as Thai curry. Later contributions from foreign traders, such as the introduction of shrimp paste and chilli peppers, further developed the complexity and spiciness that characterise Thai curries today.
A similar process of adaptation occurred across Indonesia and the Malay Archipelago, where Indian spice traditions were localised through the use of regional ingredients such as coconut milk, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, candlenut and chilli. This culinary synthesis gave rise to gulai, a rich, spiced stew that developed into numerous regional variations throughout the region. .
The establishment of the Sultanate of Malacca in the early 15th century marked a significant turning point in the region's Malay cuisine. As Malacca grew into a key entrepôt in the Indian Ocean trade network, it attracted merchants from across Asia, including South Asia, the Middle East and China. This convergence of cultures facilitated the further dissemination of spices, cooking techniques and food traditions. Indian culinary practices, in particular, were gradually adapted to suit local palates and ingredients, resulting in a distinctly Malay style of gulai. This regional variant was typically characterised by the use of coconut milk, chilli and indigenous herbs such as lemongrass, galangal and turmeric. Over time, gulai became a foundational component of the Malay cuisine, commonly served during communal feasts, religious celebrations and courtly banquets.
By the 16th century, the dish was already well-established in the Malay culinary tradition, particularly within the courts of Malacca. Early references to gulai are found in classical Malay literature, including Hikayat Amir Hamzah, which mentions the dish in the context of elite dining.Ahmad, A. Samad (3 April 1987). Hikayat Amir Hamzah. Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka, Kementerian Pelajaran, Malaysia – via Google Books Further references appear in Malay epics such as the Hikayat Hang Tuah and the Hikayat Merong Mahawangsa indicate its prominence in regional courtly and cultural settings.
Additional testimony comes from Stamford Raffles, who in his 1817 account of early 19th-century Java described a type of soup known as Gulai Melayu. According to Raffles, the dish was named after its place of origin, Melayu (Malay), reflecting its association with the Malay region and culinary identity.
The Minangkabau, known for their richly spiced and aromatic cooking, gradually adapted these foreign elements to suit local tastes and ingredients. Over time, they developed a regional version of curry-based stew that became known as gulai, marked by the use of coconut milk, chilli and regional herbs such as lemongrass and galangal. Gulai eventually became a defining feature of Padang cuisine, appearing in a wide variety of dishes made with meat, fish, offal and vegetables, and often prepared for ceremonial, communal and festive occasions.
During the colonial era, curry-based dishes such as gulai became increasingly integrated into the daily culinary practices of local communities. The 19th-century Dutch East Indies cookbook Koki Bitja listed kari (curry) as one of the most commonly prepared recipes, reflecting the enduring popularity of spice-laden stews across the region. This period also witnessed the formalisation and codification of regional variations of gulai, further entrenching its role as a staple of local cuisines.
The dish's flavour profile is built from a mixture of spice mix and herbs, commonly including coriander, black pepper, galangal, ginger, chilli peppers, shallots, garlic, fennel, lemongrass, cinnamon and caraway. These ingredients are ground into a paste and cooked with meat, fish, offal or vegetables, then slowly simmered to develop and integrate the flavours.
"Biar rumah condong, asalkan makan gulai lemak dan gulai asam pedas"Among Malay communities, gulai holds significant cultural importance and is regularly featured in both everyday meals and ceremonial occasions. Its role in the culinary tradition is reflected in a Malay folklore, "Biar rumah condong, asalkan makan gulai lemak dan gulai asam pedas", reflects the high regard for such dishes, using food as a metaphor for contentment and the idea that simple pleasures can outweigh material hardship. In various regional preparations, kerisik (toasted grated coconut paste) is commonly added to enhance the flavour and thicken the sauce.
(Let the house lean and sway, so long as there's rich gulai lemak and tangy gulai asam pedas on the table.)
Notable local variants in Peninsular Malaysia highlight the diversity of gulai across different states. In Perak and Pahang, gulai tempoyak, made with durian, is commonly served, especially during festive occasions such as Eid al-Fitr and weddings. Negeri Sembilan, known for its Pungency, is associated with masak lemak cili api, a type of gulai prepared with coconut milk, turmeric and bird's eye chilli. Other distinctive Negeri Sembilan dishes include gulai belalang padi (grasshopper gulai) and gulai pisang muda (young banana gulai).
In Kedah, gulai rias pisang (Banana pith gulai) is a regional speciality, while in Kelantan, gulai darat, typically made with beef or goat, is commonly eaten with sambal belacan. In some areas, asam pedas, a sour and spicy fish dish, is also referred to as gulai tumis, illustrating the fluid terminology in local culinary practice. Additionally, gulai is sometimes served with roti canai, offering an alternative to the more commonly served curry accompaniment.
A related adaptation of gulai exists in southern Thailand, particularly in the Thai Malays provinces of Pattani province, Yala province and Narathiwat. Among local Malay-speaking communities, the term gula lakhing is used to refer to kaeng massaman (massaman curry). The term is derived from the Malay language gulai daging ("beef gulai") and reflects the historical and linguistic connections between Malay and Thai culinary traditions. This dish is commonly served in Khao kaeng (rice and curry) establishments and remains a regular part of everyday meals in the region.
In some Orang Asli communities of the Malay Peninsula, such as the Mah Meri and Semelai people, gulai forms part of indigenous culinary traditions, prepared with wild-sourced ingredients from the surrounding environment. One example is gulai tupai dengan ubi, a preparation of squirrel stewed with cassava.
Beyond the Malay Peninsula, related culinary traditions exist in Singapore. Among the Orang Laut community, gulai nenas refers to a sour fish soup prepared with pineapple, tamarind and Shrimp paste (fermented shrimp paste), often using local fish such as parrotfish, Choerodon (ikan tokak) or snapper (ikan mentimun). The dish reflects the community's maritime heritage and adaptation of gulai to local coastal ingredients.
A similarly localised interpretation appears in Peranakan cuisine, where gulai kiam hu kut (salted fish gulai) is a notable example found in both Singapore and Malaysia. It features fried salted fish bones simmered in a thick, coconut-based gulai enriched with a spice paste. Known for its pronounced umami flavour and a subtle sourness from tamarind or asam keping, the dish illustrates the synthesis of Malay and Chinese cuisine characteristic of Peranakan foodways.
The importance of gulai in Padang cuisine is reflected in the status it holds within domestic cooking. In Padang, the ability to prepare gulai is often regarded as a measure of culinary proficiency. Dishes such as rendang (beef braised in coconut milk and spices), Asam pedas (a sour and spicy stew) and kalio (a lighter and more fluid form of rendang) are sometimes considered stylistic extensions of Padang-style gulai. These preparations are widely featured in Nasi padang, which serve Minangkabau cuisine across Indonesia and in neighbouring countries such as Malaysia and Singapore. Their presence has contributed to the dissemination of Minangkabau-style gulai beyond its regional origin.
Gulai in other Sumatran regions also displays considerable diversity. In Aceh, gulai kambing is known for its bold, aromatic spice blend, reflecting South Asian and Middle Eastern influences. In North Sumatra, cassava are commonly stewed in a coconut-based gravy, offering a widely enjoyed plant-based variant.
In Riau, gulai belacan features prawns cooked in coconut milk with Shrimp paste, tamarind and black pepper, producing a savoury and tangy flavour. From Jambi, gulai tepek ikan combines sago and minced fish, typically snakehead or mackerel, shaped into Fishcake and stewed in spiced broth.
More distinctive examples include gulai pisang from Bengkulu, which uses Banana as the main ingredient, and lempah darat from Bangka Belitung, a vegetable-based gulai incorporating , taro, young pineapple and other local produce. In South Sumatra, gulai jeghuk or pindang tempoyak blends freshwater fish with fermented durian (tempoyak), yielding a pungent, tangy dish. From Lampung, gulai taboh iwa tapa features smoked fish simmered in coconut milk with galangal, turmeric and other aromatics, often accompanied by melinjo leaves or long beans. In the nearby Riau Islands, Gulai Kuah Tige from Natuna Regency combines Sago, boiled cassava and grated coconut, which are served together with fi sh gulai poured over the top.
In Semarang, gule bustaman has a unique taste goat gule because it does not use coconut milk, and the spices of the soup is combined of serundeng, cardamom, cumin, galangal, cinnamon, and curry tree leaves. In East Java, gule kambing is served with sate kambing (goat satay).
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