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Derbyshire ( ) is a ceremonial county in the of England. It borders Greater Manchester, , and to the north, to the east, to the south-east, to the south and west, and to the west. is the largest settlement, and Matlock is the county town.

The county has an area of and a population of 1,053,316. The east of the county is more densely populated than the west, and contains the county's largest settlements: Derby (261,400), Chesterfield (88,483), and (45,000). For local government purposes Derbyshire comprises a non-metropolitan county, with eight districts, and the Derby unitary authority area. The East Midlands Combined County Authority includes Derbyshire County Council and Derby City Council.

The north and centre of Derbyshire are hilly and contain the southern end of the , most of which are part of the National Park. They include , at the highest point in the county. The River Derwent is the longest in the county, at , and flows south until it meets the just south of Derby. Church Flatts Farm at Coton in the Elms, near Swadlincote, is the furthest point from the sea in the UK.


History
The area that is now Derbyshire was first visited, probably briefly, by humans 200,000 years ago during the Aveley , as shown by a Middle Paleolithic hand axe found near Hopton. Further occupation came with the Upper Paleolithic and periods of the Stone Age when hunter-gatherers roamed the hilly tundra.Smith, p. 6. Evidence of these nomadic tribes has been found in caves located on the Nottinghamshire border. Deposits left in the caves date the occupancy at around 12,000 to 7,000 .Pevsner, p. 22.

Burial mounds of Neolithic settlers are also situated throughout the county. These were designed for collective burial and are mostly located in the central Derbyshire region. There are tombs at and that date back to between 2000 and 2500 BCE.Smith, p. 7 5 kilometres west of lies the Neolithic of , which has been dated to 2500 BCE. It is not until the that real signs of agriculture and settlement are found in the county. In the moors of the Peak District signs of clearance, arable fields and were found after archaeological investigation. However this area and another settlement at are all that have been found.Smith, p. 8.

During the Roman conquest of Britain, the invaders were attracted to Derbyshire for its lead ore in the limestone hills of the area. They settled throughout the county, with forts built near Brough in the Hope Valley and . Later they settled round , famed for its warm springs, and set up a fort near modern-day in an area now known as .

Several kings of are buried in the area.

Following the , much of the county was subject to the . To the northwest was the Forest of High Peak under the custodianship of and his descendants. The rest of the county was bestowed upon Henry de Ferrers, a part of it becoming . In time the whole area was given to the Duchy of Lancaster. Meanwhile, the Forest of East Derbyshire covered the whole county to the east of the River Derwent from the reign of Henry II to that of Edward I.


Geography
The terrain of Derbyshire mostly consists of uplands to the north and centre of the county, and lowlands to the south and east. The southern foothills and uplands of the extend from the north of the throughout the and into the north of the county, reaching the county's highest point at . The terrain is relatively low-lying across the lower Dove Valley, from the Trent Valley and southwards, the far south of the Derwent Valley and near its eastern borders with and . The main rivers in the county are the River Derwent and the River Dove which both join the River Trent in the south. The River Derwent rises in the moorland of and flows throughout the Peak District and county for the majority of its course, while the River Dove rises in Axe Edge Moor and forms a boundary between Derbyshire and for most of its length.


Landscape character
The varied landscapes within Derbyshire have been formed mainly as a consequence of the underlying geology, but also by the way the land has been managed and shaped by human activity. The county contains 11 discrete landscape types, known as National Character Areas, which have been described in detail by Natural England and further refined, mapped and described by Derbyshire County Council and the Peak District National Park. "Landscape Strategy". . Peak District National Park. Retrieved 20 August 2015.

The 11 National Character Areas found within Derbyshire are:

  • South West Peak
  • Derbyshire Peak Fringe and Lower Derwent
  • Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Yorkshire Coalfield
  • Southern Magnesian Limestone
  • Needwood and South Derbyshire Claylands
  • Trent Valley Washlands
  • Melbourne Parklands
  • Leicestershire & South Derbyshire Coalfield
  • Mease/Sence Lowlands


Geology
Derbyshire's solid geology can be split into two very different halves. The oldest rocks occur in the northern, more upland half of the county, and are mostly of age, comprising , , and . In its north-east corner to the east of , there are also Magnesian Limestone rocks of Permian age. In contrast, the southern and more lowland half of Derbyshire contains much softer rocks, mainly and sandstones of Permo-Triassic age, which create gentler, more rolling landscapes with few rock outcrops. Across both regions can be found drift deposits of age – mainly terrace and river gravel deposits and boulder clays. Landslip features are found on unstable layers of sandstones and shales, with and being the best-known. Cemented screes and deposits occur very rarely in the limestone dales and rivers, whilst cave systems have been created naturally in the limestone since Pleistocene times. A recently discovered cave chamber near Castleton, named Titan, is the deepest shaft and biggest chamber of any cave in Britain.

The oldest rocks are Lower Carboniferous limestones of age, which form the core of the White Peak within the Peak District National Park. Because northern Derbyshire is effectively an uplifted dome of rock layers that have subsequently eroded to expose older rocks in the centre of the , these are encircled by progressively younger limestone rocks, until they in turn give way on three sides to Upper Carboniferous shales, gritstones and sandstones of age.

Younger still are the sandstones, shales and coal deposits found on the eastern flank of Derbyshire, forming the coal measures, which are of Westphalian age. All these rock layers disappear south of a line drawn between Ashbourne and Derby under layers of clays and sandstones (Mercia Mudstone Group and Sherwood Sandstones) of Permo-Triassic age. Small amounts of carboniferous limestones, gritstones and coal measures reappear in the far south of Derbyshire from (limestone) to (coal measures). "A Building Stone Atlas of Derbyshire & The Peak National Park". English Heritage. September 2011. Retrieved 17 August 2015.

Some areas of the White Peak exhibit contemporaneous basalt flows (e.g. Ravens Tor at Millers Dale), as well as subsequent dolerite sill intrusion at a much later stage (e.g. near Tideswell Dale), "Rocks and Fossils". . Peakland Heritage website. Retrieved 20 August 2015. whilst mineralisation of the carboniferous limestone in a subsequent period created extensive lead and fluorite deposits which have formed a significant part of Derbyshire's economy, as did coal mining. Lead mining has been important here since Roman Times. The more recent river gravels of the Trent valley remain a significant extractive industry today in south Derbyshire, as does the mining of limestone rock in central and northern parts of the county. "Derby and Derbyshire Minerals Local Plan". . Derbyshire County Council and Derby City Council. Adopted April 2000 (revised 2002, currently under review in 2015). Retrieved 17 August 2015. Coarse sandstones were once extensively quarried both for local building materials and for the production of gritstone grinding wheels for use in mills, and both former industries have left their mark on the Derbyshire landscape.


Green belts
[[File:Derbyshire & Midlands green belts.svg|260px|thumb|Green belts in Derbyshire and beyond.
Clockwise from top left:
North West Green Belt
South and West Yorkshire Green Belt
Nottingham and Derby Green Belt
Burton upon Trent and Swadlincote Green Belt

Stoke-on-Trent Green Belt]] As well as the protections afforded to the Peak District area under national and local policies, there are several green belts within the county, aimed at preserving the landscape surrounding main urban areas. There are four such areas, the first three being portions of much larger green belts that extend outside the county and surround large conurbations:
Hayfield, Chinley, Whaley Bridge
Chesterfield, Staveley, Barlborough
Belper, Derby
Burton-upon-Trent, Swadlincote


Ecology
Because of its central location in England and altitude range from 27 metres in the south to 636 metres in the north, Derbyshire contains many species at the edge of their UK distribution ranges. Some species with a predominantly northern British distribution are at the southern limit of their range, whilst others with a more southern distribution are at their northern limit in Derbyshire. As climate change progresses, a number of sensitive species are now being seen to be either expanding or contracting their range as a result. For the purposes of protecting and recording the county's most important habitats, Derbyshire has been split into two regions, each with its own Biodiversity Action Plan (BAP), based around National Character Areas. The Peak District BAP includes all of Derbyshire's uplands of the Dark Peak, South-West Peak and White Peak, including an area of limestone beyond the national park boundary. "Peak District Biodiversity Action Plan (BAP) 2011–2020". . Peak District National Pak website. Retrieved 18 August 2015. The remaining areas are monitored and recorded in the Lowland Derbyshire Biodiversity Action Plan, which subdivides the landscape into eight smaller Action Areas. "Lowland Derbyshire Biodiversity Action Plan 2011–2020". . Lowland Derbyshire Biodiversity Partnership website. Retrieved 18 August 2015.

The Derbyshire Biological Records Centre was formerly based at Derby Museum and Art Gallery, but since 2011 has been managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. "Derbyshire Biological Records Centre". . Derbyshire Wildlife Trust website. Retrieved 18 August 2015. Two of Englands 48 Local Nature Partnerships (LNP) also cover Derbyshire; these are the Peak District LNP and the Lowland Derbyshire & Nottinghamshire LNP. "Map of Local Nature Partnerships". . Natural England/DEFRA website. Retrieved 18 August 2015.


Botany
Since 2002, the for Derbyshire has been Jacob's-ladder ( Polemonium caeruleum), a relatively rare species, and characteristic of certain limestone dales in the White Peak. Derbyshire is known to have contained 1,919 separate taxa of vascular plants (including species, hybrids and micro-species) since modern recording began, of which 1,133 are known to be either native or , the remainder being non-native species. These comprise 336 established species, 433 casuals and 17 unassigned. It is known that 34 species of plants once native here have been lost from Derbyshire (i.e. become locally extinct) since modern plant recording began in the 17th century. Derbyshire contains two vascular plants, found nowhere else in the world: , a occurring in central Derbyshire, and Derby hawkweed ( Hieracium naviense), still known only from . One endemic species of moss, Derbyshire Feather Moss, occurs in one small 3-metre patch in just one Derbyshire limestone dale, its sole world location intentionally kept confidential.

The distribution and status of vascular plants in Derbyshire have been recorded over the last 120 years in a series of four major botanical works, each by different authors between 1889 and 2015, all entitled The Flora of Derbyshire. Plant recording is mainly undertaken locally by volunteers from the Derbyshire Flora Group, and by staff at Derbyshire Wildlife Trust and the Peak District National Park.

The Dark Peak is marked by heathlands, bogs, gritstone edges and acid grasslands containing relatively few species, with plants such as ( Calluna vulgaris), ( Empetrum nigrum), bilberry ( Vaccinium myrtillus) and hare's-tail cotton grass ( Eriophorum vaginatum) being dominant on the high moors. The dales of the White Peak are known for habitats such as calcareous grassland, ash woodlands and rock outcrops in all of which a much greater richness of lime-loving species occurs than elsewhere in the county. These include various orchids (such as ( Orchis mascula), dark-red helleborine ( Epipactis atrorubens) and fly orchid ( Ophrys insectifera)), common rockrose ( Helianthemum nummularium), spring cinquefoil ( Helianthemum nummularium) and ( Parnassia palustris). Specialised communities of plants occur on former lead workings, where typical species include ( Minuartia verna), alpine penny-cress ( Thlaspi caerulescens) (both known locally in Derbyshire as Leadwort), as well as ( Viola lutea) and moonwort ( Botrychium lunaria).

In 2015, Derbyshire contained 304 vascular plant species now designated as of international, national or local conservation concern, for their rarity or recent declines, and collectively listed as Derbyshire Red Data plants. Work on recording and publishing a bryophyte flora for Derbyshire still continues: by 2012 a total of 518 bryophyte species had been recorded for the county.Tom Blockeel "Bryophytes" , Derbyshire Wildlife Trust website, July 2013, retrieved 17 August 2015Tom Blockeel "A Bryological Tour through Derbyshire (v.-c.57)" , British Bryological Society website, 18 January 2004, retrieved 17 August 2015.

Botanical recording in the UK predominantly uses the unchanging boundary system, which results in a slightly different map of Derbyshire from the modern geographic county.


Zoology
A number of specialist organisations protect, promote and monitor records of individual animal groups across Derbyshire. The main ones are Derbyshire Ornithological Society; Derbyshire Mammal Group; Derbyshire Bat Group, Derbyshire Amphibian and Reptile Group, and the Derbyshire & Nottingham Entomological Society. All maintain databases of wildlife sightings, whilst some such as the Derbyshire Ornithological Society provide alerts of rare sightings on their websites or social media pages and also publish major works describing the status and distribution of species. "Derbyshire Ornithological Society" , retrieved 18 August 2015.


Economy
Derbyshire has a mixture of a rural economy in the west, with a former coal-mining economy in the north-east (Bolsover district), the Erewash Valley around Ilkeston and in the south around Swadlincote. The rural landscape varies from arable farmland in the flatlands to the south of Derby, to and in the high uplands of the southern Pennines.

Derbyshire is rich in natural mineral resources such as lead, iron, coal, and limestone, which have been exploited over a long period. Lead, for example, has been mined since times. The limestone outcrops in the central area led to the establishment of large to supply the industries of surrounding towns with lime for building and , and latterly in the 20th-century cement manufacture. The Industrial Revolution also increased demand for , and in the late 19th and early 20th-century, the arrival of the railways led to a large number of stone quarries being established. This industry has left its mark on the countryside, but is still a major industry: a lot of the stone is supplied as for road building and concrete manufacture, and is moved by rail.

Derbyshire's relative remoteness in the late 18th century and an abundance of fast-flowing streams led to a proliferation of the use of at the beginning of the Industrial Revolution, following the mills pioneered by Richard Arkwright. Derbyshire has been said to be the home of the Industrial Revolution, and part of the Derwent Valley has been given World Heritage status in acknowledgement of this historic importance.

Nationally famous companies in Derbyshire include Rolls-Royce, one of the world's leading aerospace companies, based since before World War I in Derby, just south of Alfreton and Toyota, who have one of the UK's largest car manufacturing plants at . Ashbourne Water used to be bottled in Buxton by Nestlé Waters UK until 2006 and Buxton Water still is.

Derbyshire is one of only three counties permitted to make cheese that is labelled as . The others are and . The smallest of six companies making this product is Hartington Creamery at . As of March 2021, Hartington Stilton was marketing within the UK but also exporting to the US, EU and Canada. The company director told the BBC that they had "a surge in interest and consumer sales from the US".


Governance
The county is divided into eleven constituencies for the election of members of parliament (MPs) to the House of Commons. In the 2024 United Kingdom general election, all seats in Derbyshire were won by the Labour Party, including the seat of Derbyshire Dales, a Conservative safe seat that had not been won by Labour since the 1945 election.

Shown below are the vote and seat count at the 2019 election compared to the 2024 election:

Derbyshire has a three-tier local government since the local government reorganisation in 1974. It has a county council based in Matlock and eight district councils and since 1997, a unitary authority area of the City of Derby. Derby remains part of Derbyshire only for ceremonial purposes.

Derbyshire has become fractionally smaller during government reorganisation over the years. The Sheffield suburbs Woodseats, Beauchief, Handsworth, Woodhouse, Norton, Mosborough, , and Dore were previously parts of the county, but were lost to between 1900 and 1933; was transferred in 1967. However, Derbyshire gained part of the valley and from Cheshire in 1974. The current area of the geographic/ceremonial county of Derbyshire is only 4.7 square kilometres less than it was over 100 years ago.

At the third tier are the parish councils, which do not cover all areas. The eight district councils in Derbyshire and the unitary authority of Derby are shown in the map above.

These district councils are responsible for local planning and building control, local roads, , environmental health, markets and fairs, refuse collection and recycling, cemeteries and crematoria, leisure services, parks, and tourism. Education, social services, libraries, main roads, public transport, policing and fire services, trading standards, waste disposal and strategic planning are the responsibility of the County Council.

Although Derbyshire is in the , some parts, such as High Peak (which incorporated former areas of after boundary changes in 1974), are closer to the northern cities of and and these receive services more affiliated with northern England; for example, the North West Ambulance Service, and .Outside the main city of Derby, the largest town in the county is Chesterfield.

Derbyshire is also part of multiple combined authorities. The Erewash, Amber Valley and Derby districts are part of the D2N2 partnership with neighbouring Nottinghamshire. The Derbyshire Dales, Bolsover, North East Derbyshire and Chesterfield districts are part of the South Yorkshire Mayoral Combined Authority (as non constituent members).

Derbyshire County Council and Derby City Council are part of the East Midlands Combined Authority, and elected the first Mayor of the East Midlands in the 2024 East Midlands Mayoral Election.


Education
The Derbyshire school system is comprehensive with no selective schools. The independent sector includes , and The Elms School.

Derbyshire is home to the University of Derby, and the University of Nottingham Medical School.


Settlements
There are several towns in the county, with Derby the largest and most populous. At the time of the 2011 census, a population of 770,600 lived in the county with 248,752 (32%) living in Derby.

Although Derbyshire is officially part of the East Midlands statistical region, parts of the county are often considered to be culturally in , such as Chesterfield and Glossop.

The table below shows all towns with over 10,000 inhabitants.

Figure is for Belper civil parish, which includes Milford and Blackbrook
Figure is for Dronfield civil parish, which includes Dronfield Woodhouse and
Figure is for Ripley civil parish, which includes , and
Figure is for Staveley civil parish, which includes , , and
Figure is for the electoral wards of Howard Town, Old Glossop, Dinting, Simmondley and Whitfield.
Figure is for Heanor and Loscoe civil parish, which includes but excludes Heanor Gate
Figure is for Old Bolsover civil parish, which includes , and Whaley, but excludes part of Hillstown.
Figure is for Eckington civil parish, which includes Renishaw, , Marsh Lane and Ridgeway.


Historic areas
During a series of administrative boundary changes during the 20th century, settlements which were historically part of the county now fall under the administrative areas of Greater Manchester, , and :

Numerous other boundary changes also took place during the course of the 19th century, with county settlements being ceded to the counties of Staffordshire and Leicestershire


Media
Because of the size of the county, southern parts of Derbyshire such as Derby, Matlock, Ashbourne and are covered by BBC East Midlands and in , broadcast from Waltham. Northeast Derbyshire, Chesterfield, the eastern High Peak (Hope Valley) and northern area of the ( and ) are covered by and from Emley Moor, with their ITV News Calendar and Look North programmes, both from . The western area of the High Peak (Buxton, Glossop, New Miils and Chapel-en-le-Frith) is covered by BBC North West from Winter Hill and , both based in .

BBC Local Radio for the county is provided by BBC Radio Derby, BBC Radio Sheffield (covering Chesterfield and ) and BBC Radio Manchester (covering Glossop, New Miils and Chapel-en-le-Frith).

County-wide commercial radio stations are , Hits Radio East Midlands, Gold, Greatest Hits Radio East Midlands and Greatest Hits Radio Yorkshire (for Chesterfield, Matlock and Bakewell).


Sport
Derbyshire has two Football League teams, Derby County, which plays in the , the second tier of English football. The next highest-placed team is Chesterfield, which participates in EFL League Two, the fourth tier of English football. There are also many non-league teams playing throughout the county, most notably Alfreton Town, which plays in the National League North. The county is currently home to the world's oldest football club, Sheffield F.C., which plays in Dronfield in north-east Derbyshire. was the smallest town in the country to have a football team in the top tier of English football, Glossop North End.

Derbyshire has a team based at the County Cricket Ground. Derbyshire County Cricket Club currently plays in Division Two of the County Championship. There are also clubs based in the north of the county, the North Derbyshire Chargers and in Derby (Derby City RLFC). The county has numerous rugby union clubs, including Derby, Chesterfield Panthers, Matlock, Ilkeston, Ashbourne, Bakewell and Amber Valley.

The county is a popular area for a variety of recreational sports such as rock climbing, hill walking, , , sailing on its many reservoirs, and cycling along the many miles of disused rail tracks that have been turned into cycle trails, such as the and High Peak Trail.

The town of Ashbourne in Derbyshire is known for its Royal Shrovetide Football, described as a "medieval football game", played annually on and .

Derbyshire is host to one of the only community teams in the country, known as Derby Union Quidditch Club. The Club recruits players from the age of 16 upwards from all over Derby, and has representatives from most local sixth forms and the University of Derby. The team has competed against both the Leeds Griffins and the Leicester Lovegoods in the past and is part of the vibrant UK quidditch scene. It is also an official International Quidditch Association team.


Local attractions
The county of Derbyshire has many attractions for tourists and local people. It offers scenery such as and , and more urban attractions such as , and . Such places include , Castleton, , National Tramway Museum at Crich, steam railway, steam railway, , , the Heights of Abraham and . Local Attractions . Retrieved 19 March 2008

In the north of the county, three large reservoirs, , Derwent and Ladybower, were built in the early part of the 20th century to supply the rapidly growing populations of Sheffield, Derby and with drinking water. The moorland catchment area around these is part of the and extensively used for leisure pursuits such as walking and cycling.

There are many properties and lands in the care of the National Trust that are open to the public, such as , , High Peak Estate, , , near , and on the border.

Notable gardens in Derbyshire include the formal ones in 17th–18th-century French style at south of Derby, the listed garden at near Eckington, Lea Rhododendron Gardens near Matlock, the Royal Horticultural Society recommended Bluebell Arboretum near , and the extensive gardens at Chatsworth House.

, also known as Melandra, or Melandra Castle, is an ancient Roman fort built in the north-west of the county. The ruins and foundations are open free of charge to the public.


County emblems
As part of a 2002 marketing campaign, the plant conservation charity chose the Jacob's-ladder as the .

In September 2006, a proposal for a county flag was introduced, largely on the initiative of BBC Radio Derby. It consists of a white-bordered dark green cross encompassing a golden (a historical symbol of the county) all set in a blue field. The blue field represents the many waters of the county, its rivers and reservoirs, while the cross is green to mark the great areas of countryside. The flag was subsequently registered with the in September 2008.

In 2015, BBC Radio Derby commissioned a Derbyshire anthem entitled "Our Derbyshire", including lyrics suggested by its listeners. It received its first performance on 17 September 2015 at .


Demographics
+Derbyshire Compared
53,012,456
9.3%
85.5%
7.7%
3.4%
59.4%
5.0%
1.5%
24.7%
16.3%
4.4%

In 1801 the population was 147,481 This had grown to 272,217 inhabitants by the time of the 1841 census. According to the UK Census 2001 there were 956,301 people spread over the county's 254,615 hectares. This was estimated to have risen to 990,400 in 2006.

The county's population grew by 3.0 per cent from 1991 to 2001 which is around 21,100 people. This figure is higher than the national average of 2.65 per cent, but lower than the East Midlands average of 4.0 per cent. The county as a whole has an average population density of 2.9 people per hectare, making it less densely populated than England as a whole.

The density varies throughout the county, with the lowest being in the region of at 0.88 per hectare, and the highest outside the main cities in the region of Erewash, which has 10.04 people per hectare.

+Population since 1801


In literature and popular culture
The 1969 film Women in Love by had scenes filmed in and around , notably the Greco-Roman wrestling scene, which was filmed in the castle's Great Hall.

The 1988 film The Lair of the White Worm by Ken Russell, (starring and ) was filmed largely in Derbyshire. Lair's opening title sequence and primary story locations occur in and around Thor's Cave, part of the , valley.

The 2008 film The Duchess includes scenes filmed at and at .

The 1993–2002 TV series was set in and , except for the twelfth and final series, and originally starred and . "Peak Practice" , BBC Derby, 24 September 2014, retrieved 20 August 2015. In 2003, an unrelated and less successful medical TV drama, , was mostly filmed in the historic market town of Wirksworth.

Other Derbyshire locations in which British TV scenes have been filmed include: "Derbyshire on TV and Film" , BBC Derby, 27 September 2014, retrieved 20 August 2015.

  • : Stig of the Dump
  • Ashbourne and Vernon Street in : Nanny
  • Chesterfield: The twisted spire of Church of St Mary and All Saints, Chesterfield, was made famous by its use in the opening credits of the 1966–1971 ecclesiastical BBC TV sitcom All Gas and Gaiters, featuring .
  • Hadfield: The League of Gentlemen
  • The Peak District is the scene of a series of four crime novels of the 21st century by Sarah Ward: Bitter Chill (2015), The Shrouded Path (2020), A Deadly Thaw and A Patient Fury.
  • and especially : Goodbye, Mr. Chips (in both 1939 and 1983 versions)
  • : The Full Monty
  • : 1980s BBC TV series of The Chronicles of Narnia


See also
  • Custos Rotulorum of Derbyshire – Keepers of the Rolls
  • Derbyshire (UK Parliament constituency)
  • Derbyshire Police and Crime Commissioner
  • High Sheriff of Derbyshire
  • History of Derbyshire
  • Lord Lieutenant of Derbyshire
  • List of English and Welsh endowed schools (19th century)#Derbyshire


Further reading


External links

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