Crete

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Crete ( ; , Modern Greek: Kríti , Ancient Greek: Krḗtē ) is the largest and most populous of the Greek islands, the 88th largest island in the world, and the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, after Sicily, Sardinia, Cyprus, and Corsica. Crete is located approximately south of the Peloponnese, and about southwest of Anatolia. Crete has an area of and a coastline of 1,046 km (650 mi). It bounds the southern border of the Aegean Sea, with the Sea of Crete (or North Cretan Sea) to the north and the Libyan Sea (or South Cretan Sea) to the south. Crete covers 260 km from west to east but is narrow from north to south, spanning three degrees of longitude but only half a degree of latitude.

Crete and its surrounding islands and islets form the Region of Crete (), which is the southernmost of the 13 top-level administrative units of Greece, and the fifth most populous of Greece's regions. Its capital and largest city is Heraklion, located on the island's north shore. , the region had a population of 624,408. The Dodecanese are located to the northeast of Crete, while the Cyclades are situated to the north, separated by the Sea of Crete. The Peloponnese is to the region's northwest.

Crete was the center of Europe's first advanced civilization, the Minoans, from 2700 to 1420 BC. The Minoan civilization was overrun by the Mycenaean Greece from mainland Greece. Crete was subsequently ruled by Roman Empire, then successively by the Byzantine Empire, Al-Andalus Arabs, the Byzantine Empire again, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. In 1898 Crete, whose people had for some time wanted to join the Greek state, achieved independence from the Ottomans, formally becoming the Cretan State. Crete became part of Greece in December 1913.

Crete is predominantly mountainous, characterized by a range that crosses the island from west to east. It includes Crete's highest point, Mount Ida, and the range of the Lefka Ori (Lefka Ori) with 30 summits above in altitude and the Samaria Gorge, a World Biosphere Reserve. Crete forms a significant part of the economy and cultural heritage of Greece, while retaining its own local cultural traits (such as its own Mantinada and Cretan music). The Nikos Kazantzakis airport at Heraklion and the Daskalogiannis airport at Chania serve international travelers. The Minoan palace at Knossos is also located in Heraklion. Ancient Crete Oxford Bibliographies Online: Classics

The current name Crete is first attested in the 15th century BC in Mycenaean Greek texts, written in Linear B, through the words ke-re-te , * Krētes; later Greek: Κρῆτες , plural of Κρής )Found on the Pylos An 128 tablet. and ke-re-si-jo , * Krēsijos; later Greek: Κρήσιος ,Found on the PY Ta 641 and PY Ta 709 tablets. 'Cretian')., . In Ancient Greek, the name Crete (Κρήτη) first appears in Homer's Odyssey.Book 14, line 199; Henry George Liddell, Robert Scott, A Greek–English Lexicon Its etymology is unknown. One proposal derives it from a hypothetical Luwian language word *kursatta (compare kursawar 'island', kursattar 'cutting, sliver').Edwin L. Brown, "Linear A on Trojan Spindlewhorls, Luvian-Based ϜΑΝΑΞ at Cnossus", in Qui miscuit utile dulci: Festschrift Essays for Paul Lachlan MacKendrick, eds. Gareth Schmeling & Jon D. Mikalson (Wauconda, Ill.: Bolchazy-Carducci, 1998), 62. Another proposal suggests that it derives from the ancient Greek word "κραταιή" (krataie̅), meaning strong or powerful, the reasoning being that Crete was the strongest thalassocracy during ancient times.

In Classical Latin, the name of the island became Creta. The original Arabic name of Crete was Iqrīṭiš ( < (τῆς) Κρήτης), but after the Emirate of Crete's establishment of its new capital at ربض الخندق Rabḍ al-Ḫandaq (modern Heraklion; , Irákleio), both the city and the island became known as Χάνδαξ (Chandax) or Χάνδακας (Chandakas), which gave Latin, Italian, and Venetian Candia, from which were derived French Candie and English Candy or Candia. Under Ottoman Empire, in Ottoman Turkish, Crete was called Girit (كريد). In the Hebrew Bible, Crete is referred to as (כְּרֵתִים) "kretim".

There are a number of peninsulas and gulfs on the north side of Crete, from west to east these include: Gramvousa peninsula, gulf of Kissamos, Rodopos peninsula, gulf of Chania, Akrotiri peninsula, Souda Bay, Apokoronas cape, gulf of Almyros, gulf of Heraklion, Aforesmenos cape, gulf of Mirabello Bay, gulf of Sitia and the Cape Sideros peninsula. On the south side of Crete is the gulf of Messara Plain and Cape Lithinon.

• The Idi Range (Psiloritis)
• The White Mountains or Lefka Ori
• The Dikti
• Mount Kedros
• Thrypti
• Asterousia Mountains

These mountains lavish Crete with valleys, such as Amari Valley, fertile plateaus, such as Lasithi Plateau, Omalos and Nidha; caves, such as Gourgouthakas, Diktaion, and Idaion (the birthplace of the ancient Greek god Zeus); and a number of gorges.

The mountains have been seen as a key feature of the island's distinctiveness, especially since the time of Romantic travellers' writing. Contemporary Cretans distinguish between highlanders and lowlanders; the former often claim to reside in places affording a higher/better climatic and moral environment. In keeping with the legacy of Romantic authors, the mountains are seen as having determined their residents' 'resistance' to past invaders which relates to the oft-encountered idea that highlanders are 'purer' in terms of less intermarriages with occupiers.

For residents of mountainous areas, such as Sfakians in western Crete, the aridness and rockiness of the mountains is emphasised as an element of pride and is often compared to the alleged soft-soiled mountains of others parts of Greece or the world.

The rivers of Crete include the Geropotamos River, the Koiliaris, the Anapodiaris, the Almiros, the Giofyros, the Keritis, and Megas Potamos. There are only two freshwater lakes in Crete: Lake Kournas and Lake Agia, which are both in Chania regional unit. Photos of Agia Lake Crete TOURnet. Lake Voulismeni at the coast, at Aghios Nikolaos, was formerly a freshwater lake but is now connected to the sea, in Lasithi. Lake Voulismeni aghiosnikolaos.eu Three artificial lakes created by dams also exist in Crete: the lake of Aposelemis Dam, the lake of Potamos Dam, and the lake of Mpramiana Dam.

File:HaGorgeExit.jpg|Ha Gorge File:Samaria Gorge 09.jpg|Samariá Gorge File:Crete Aradaina3 tango7174.jpg|Aradaina Gorge File:Venetian Bridge over Megalopótamos River, Préveli, Crete.jpg|Venetian Bridge over Megalopotamos River

• Gramvousa (Kissamos, Chania) the pirate island opposite the Balo lagoon
• Elafonisi (Chania), which commemorates a shipwreck and an Ottoman massacre
• Chrysi island (Ierapetra, Lasithi), which hosts the largest natural Juniperus macrocarpa forest in Europe
• Paximadia island (Agia Galini, Rethymno) where the god Apollo and the goddess Artemis were traditionally believed to be born
• The Venetian fort and leper colony at Spinalonga opposite the beach and shallow waters of Elounda (Agios Nikolaos, Lasithi)
• Dionysades islands which are in an environmentally protected region together with the Palm Beach Forest of Vai in the municipality of Sitia, Lasithi

Off the south coast, the island of Gavdos is located south of Hora Sfakion and is the southernmost point of Europe.

The south coast, including the Mesara Plain and Asterousia Mountains enjoy significantly more sunny days and, on average, higher temperatures throughout the year. There, bear fruit, and swallows remain year-round. The fertile region around Ierapetra, on the southeastern corner of the island, has year-round agricultural production, with summer vegetable and fruit produced in throughout the year.

Average annual temperatures reach up to 21.6 °C in Psari Forada which is located in South Crete. Crete holds the record for the highest temperatures ever recorded in Europe during October, November, January and February among most European weather stations. According to the Hellenic National Meteorological Service, South Crete receives the most sunshine in Greece with more than 3,257 hours of sunshine per year.

File:Chania harbour.jpg|Venetian harbour in Chania File:Ενετικό λιμάνι Ρεθύμνου 0301-HDR.jpg|Dusk airview of the Old Harbour of Rethymno File:Venetian Arsenals in Heraklion Crete.jpg|View of the harbour in Heraklion File:Agios Nikolaos R02.jpg|The old harbour in Agios Nikolaos

Since 1 January 2011, the regional governor is Stavros Arnaoutakis of the PASOK. First elected in 2010, he was re-elected in 2014, 2019 and 2023.

• Heraklion ( Iraklion or Candia) (144,422 inhabitants)2011 Census
• Chania ( Haniá) (88,525 inhabitants)
• Rethymno (34,300 inhabitants)
• Ierapetra (23,707 inhabitants)
• Agios Nikolaos (20,679 inhabitants)
• Sitia (14,338 inhabitants)

File:Venetian Fortress in Heraklion Crete NE side.jpg|Venetian fortress in Heraklion File:Kreta - Chania - Kathedrale der drei Märtyrer.jpg|Chania cathedral File:Rethymno Fortezza Mosque 02.JPG|Rethymno Fortezza Mosque File:Sitia R01.jpg|Kazarma fortress at the top in Sitia

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As in many regions of Greece, viticulture and olive groves are significant; oranges, Greek citron, and are also cultivated. Dairy products are important to the local economy and there are a number of specialty cheeses such as mizithra, anthotyros, and kefalotyri. 20% of Greek wine is produced in Crete, mostly in the region of Peza.

The Gross domestic product (GDP) of the region was €9.4 billion in 2018, accounting for 5.1% of Greek economic output. GDP per capita adjusted for purchasing power was €17,800 or 59% of the EU27 average in the same year. The GDP per employee was 68% of the EU average. Crete is the region in Greece with the fifth highest GDP per capita.

The main ports from west to east are at Kissamos (ferry link to Peloponnese), Souda (Chania), Rethymno, Heraklion (links to Cyclades), Agios Nikolaos and Sitia (link to Dodecanese).

In addition, a European Union study has been devised to promote a modern highway to connect the northern and southern parts of the island via a tunnel. The study proposal includes a section of road between the villages of Agia Varvara and Agia Deka in central Crete. The new road section forms part of the route between Messara Plain in the south and Crete's largest city Heraklion, which houses the island's biggest airport and ferry links with mainland Greece.

Newspapers have reported that the Ministry of Mercantile Marine is ready to support the agreement between Greece, South Korea, Dubai Ports World and China for the construction of a large international container port and free trade zone in southern Crete near Tympaki; the plan is to expropriate of land. The port would handle two million containers per year, but the project has not been universally welcomed because of its environmental, economic and cultural impact. No Container Transshipment Hub in Timbaki . Retrieved 27 May 2007. As of January 2013, the project has still not been confirmed, although there is mounting pressure to approve it, arising from Greece's difficult economic situation.

There are plans for underwater cables going from mainland Greece to Israel and Egypt passing by Crete and Cyprus: EuroAfrica Interconnector and EuroAsia Interconnector. They would connect Crete electrically with mainland Greece, ending energy isolation of Crete. At present Greece covers electricity cost differences for Crete of around €300 million per year.

During the 6th to 4th centuries BC, Crete was comparatively free from warfare. The Gortyn code (5th century BC) is evidence for how codified civil law established a balance between aristocratic power and civil rights. In the late 4th century BC, the aristocratic order began to collapse due to endemic infighting among the elite, and Crete's economy was weakened by prolonged wars between city states. During the 3rd century BC, Gortyn, Kydonia (Chania), Lyctus and Polyrrhenia challenged the primacy of ancient Knossos.

While the cities continued to prey upon one another, they invited into their feuds mainland powers like Macedon and its rivals Rhodes and Ptolemaic Egypt. In 220 BC the island was tormented by a Lyttian War. As a result, the Macedonian king Philip V gained hegemony over Crete which lasted to the end of the Cretan War (205–200 BC), when the Rhodes opposed the rise of Macedon and the Roman Republic started to interfere in Cretan affairs. In the 2nd century BC Ierapytna (Ierapetra) gained supremacy on eastern Crete.

In 1204, the Fourth Crusade seized and sacked the imperial capital of Constantinople. Crete was initially granted to leading Crusader Boniface of Montferrat in the partition of spoils that followed. However, Boniface sold his claim to the Republic of Venice, whose forces made up the majority of the Crusade. Venice's rival the Republic of Genoa immediately seized the island and it was not until 1212 that Venice secured Crete as a colony.

Under the rule of the Catholic Venetians, the city of Heraklion was reputed to be the best fortified city of the Eastern Mediterranean.M. Greene. 2001. Ruling an island without a navy: A comparative view of Venetian and Ottoman Crete. Oriente moderno, 20(81), 193–207 The three main forts were located at Gramvousa, Spinalonga, and Fortezza Castle at Rethymnon. Other fortifications include the Kazarma fortress at Sitia and Frangokastello in Sfakia.

In 1492, Jews expelled from Spain settled on the island.A.J. Schoenfeld. 2007. Immigration and Assimilation in the Jewish Community of Late Venetian Crete (15th–17th centuries). Journal of Modern Greek Studies, 25(1), 1–15 In 1574–77, Crete was under the rule of Giacomo Foscarini as Proveditor General, Sindace and Inquisitor. According to Starr's 1942 article, the rule of Giacomo Foscarini was a Dark Age for Jews and Greeks. Under his rule, non-Catholics had to pay high taxes with no allowances. In 1627, there were 800 Jews in the city of Candia, about seven percent of the city's population.Starr, J. (1942), Jewish Life in Crete Under the Rule of Venice, Proceedings of the American Academy for Jewish Research, Vol. 12, pp. 59–114. Marco Foscarini was the Doge of Venice during this time.

Islamic presence on the island, aside from the interlude of the Arab occupation, was cemented by the Ottoman conquest. Most Cretan Muslims were local Greek converts who spoke Cretan Greek language, but in the island's 19th-century political context they came to be viewed by the Christian population as Turks.

A number of Sufi orders were widespread throughout the island, the Bektashi order being the most prevalent,

During the Greek War of Independence, Sultan Mahmud II granted rule over Crete to Egypt's de facto ruler Muhammad Ali Pasha in exchange for his military support. Crete was subsequently left out of the new Greek state established under the London Protocol of 1830.

The Lefka Ori region in the west offered more favourable conditions for DSE's insurgency. In the summer of 1947 DSE raided and looted the Maleme Airport and motor depot at Chrysopigi. Its numbers swelled to approximately 300 fighters. The rise of DSE numbers compounded with crop failure on the island created serious logistical issues for the insurgents. The communists resorted to Cattle raiding and crop confiscations which solved the problem only temporarily. In the autumn of 1947, the Greek government offered generous amnesty terms to Cretan DSE fighters and mountain bandits, many of whom opted to abandon armed struggle or defect to the nationalists. On 4 July 1948, government troops launched a large scale offensive on Samariá Gorge. Many DSE soldiers were killed in the fighting while the survivors broke into small armed bands. In October 1948, the secretary of the Cretan KKE Giorgos Tsitilos was killed in an ambush. By the following month only 34 DSE fighters remained active in Lefka Ori. The insurgency in Crete gradually withered away, with the last two hold outs surrendering in 1974, 25 years after the conclusion of the war in mainland Greece.

Today, the island's tourism infrastructure includes a wide range of accommodation; including large luxury hotels with their complete facilities, swimming pools, sports and recreation, smaller family-owned apartments, camping facilities and others. Visitors reach the island via two international airports in Heraklion and Chania and a smaller airport in Sitia (international charter and domestic flights started in May 2012) or by boat to the main ports of Heraklion, Chania, Rethimno, Agios Nikolaos and Sitia.

Popular tourist attractions include the archaeological sites of the Minoan civilisation, the Venetian old city and port of Chania, the Venetian castle at Rethymno, the gorge of Samaria, the islands of Chrysi, Elafonisi, Gramvousa, Spinalonga and the Palm Beach of Vai, which is the largest natural palm forest in Europe.

Bat species include: Blasius's horseshoe bat, the lesser horseshoe bat, the greater horseshoe bat, the lesser mouse-eared bat, Geoffroy's bat, the whiskered bat, Kuhl's pipistrelle, the common pipistrelle, Savi's pipistrelle, the serotine bat, the long-eared bat, Schreibers' bat and the European free-tailed bat. Wildlife on Crete IntoCrete.com

File:Kri-kri 1.jpg|The kri-kri (the Cretan ibex) lives in protected natural parks at the gorge of Samaria and the island of Agios Theodoros. File:Male Cretan ibex.jpg|Male Cretan ibex File:Kritikos Lagonikos 02.jpg|Cretan Hound or Kritikos Lagonikos, one of Europe's oldest hunting dog breeds