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The pourpoint (formerly called jack or paltock) was a garment worn by noblemen of the late 14th century in civilian or military situations. It is not to be confused with either a gambeson, an aketon, or a jupon. This garment is known for its wasp waisted and round silhouette achieved thanks to its sewing pattern, its quilting and its "grande assiette" style sleeves.
The word pourpoint existed as early as the late 12th century. In fact, it was originally a synonym for the terms gambeson and aketon both in England (it supplanted the gambeson in Henry III's Assize of Arms (1242)Bennett, Stephen (2023), "Under or Over (or Both)? Textile Armour and the Warrior in the High Middle Ages", Arms & Armour 20/1, 35-53 and in France (as described in the 14th century "pélérinage de la vie humaine"). But in the late 14th century, it turned into the Pidgeon breasted garment we know today. At this time, they were commonly referred to as jacks or paltocks.The medieval inventories of the Tower armories 1320-1410 by Roland Thomas Richardson on page 182-183
Instead of wearing the armor's weight on the shoulders, late medieval knights opted to distribute their Armour weight throughout the body. Eventually, this garment started being worn by noble men in their day-to-day lives as outer garments (over the Underwear) replacing the tunic.
As soon as the 15th century, manuscripts depict people wearing doublets instead.
The word was also used for a women's garment in the 16th century. An inventory of the wardrobe of Mary, Queen of Scots at Chartley Castle in 1586, written in French, lists fifteen "pourpoincts" of satin, taffeta, and canvas. These were described as doublets in later lists.Alexandre Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 7 (London: Dolman, 1844), pp. 234–35.
Doublets made of silk fabric were worn in the battlefield.
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