Organdy, also spelled Organdie,[Le Van, Marthe (2009). Stitched Jewels: Jewelry That's Sewn, Stuffed, Gathered & Frayed, p. 10. Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.]
Characteristics
Organdy is a stiffened material; sheerest among its peers, which include
lawn cloth and
Batiste. Often, these materials may come from the same
Greige goods, and are differentiated from each other in how they are finished. Organdy's sheerness and crispness are attributed to the acid finish (parchmentising) whereas the lawn cloth is finished with starch or resin, and Batiste is a softer fabric type.
Finer yarns with higher twist counts are used in superior quality organdy.
Process
Organdy is an acid stiffened cloth. Its sheerness and crispness is the result of an
acid finish, where the fabric is treated with
sulfuric acid solution for a short period and then neutralized to remove excessive acid in a process called "
parchmentising". Parchmentisation is a treatment of acid on cellulosic textiles in the pursuit of obtaining
parchment characteristics. The finish offers a stiffened and translucent effect not dissimilar from silk
organza.
Figured Organdy is produced by applying an acid-resisting substance to a localised area; on the contrary, immersing it completely makes it stiffen all over. The objective of all-over parchmentizing is to create a transparent cloth.
Use
Organdy was historically used for
Wedding dress, ladies party dresses, and
Blouse. Organdy was a useful material as a
Casement cloth, sheers, and lining etc.
In the late 19th through mid 20th centuries, young girls wore dresses made of organdy.
In the 21st century, this material has fallen out of favor in the childrenswear market because of its tendency to wrinkle, which can be attributed to its stiffness.
Today, organdy is most often seen in
Haute couture collections by designers such as
Marc Jacobs.
See also
Sources
