' (l=large-sleeved gown[ "唐·服饰" 慢束罗裙半露胸 “钿钗礼衣”大袖衫——唐代女子服 wenhua.eco.gov.cn retrieved 2010-01-07]
Terminology
It has come to be known as but has also been called at various times.
It was also referred as and in the
Ming dynasty.
History
Tang dynasty and Five dynasties and Ten Kingdoms
After the golden age of the
Tang dynasty ended, the influence of , the clothing styles from
Central Asia and
Western Asia, gradually weakened and the clothing styles of the royal women of the Tang dynasty began to make their transformation becoming more and more broader and looser.
[ 唐代大袖衫 yonglian.gov.cn retrieved 2010-01-07]
It was not until the mid-late Tang dynasty period (labels=no) that the distinctions between royal women's clothing and other styles became increasingly obvious.
Song dynasty
The was originally worn by empresses and imperials concubines as their ordinary clothing.
However, it was later adopted by the aristocratic women who used it as part of their ceremonial attire.
Commoners were not allowed to wear the and had to wear the
beizi instead.
Ming dynasty
In the
Ming dynasty, the was known as (labels=no). A yellow coloured was worn by the Ming dynasty (labels=no), while a red was worn by the women of the imperial clan, which could include the (labels=no), (labels=no), (labels=no), (labels=no).
The red was also worn by the ,
titled court women of first rank.
The Ming dynasty also bestowed to the queens of Joseon, where it became known as ().
Construction and Design
Tang dynasty
The width of the coat increased to more than four feet and its sleeves were often wider than 1.3 metres.
It features a distinctive gown that covers the body from the ground to just above the chest with a knot wrapped around the waist, a light and sometimes sheer outer coat that ties together at the bottom, near the knees, and often goes along with a long
pibo draped around the arms. The clothing often only covers half of women's breast and so it is restricted to women of a certain status, such as princesses or gējī.
Derivative and influences
Korea
During the Joseon period, the () was a red, non-decorated robe with wide sleeves worn by the queens in early Joseon from the reign of King Munjong to the reign of King Seonjo for important state ceremonies; the was among the clothing items and accessories (including dansam, overcoats, skirts, jeogwan, hair accessories with floral decorations,
Xiapei, a jade scepter) bestowed by the
Ming dynasty during the reign of King Munjong until 1603 under the reign of King Seonjo. According to Hong Nayong, the is believed to be in the form of the Ming dynasty's daxiushan, which was worn by the titled court women of first rank. The Ming dynasty bestowed official clothing to the Joseon's queens but not the wife of the Crown prince, as such the clothing sent by the Ming dynasty to the Joseon queens in early Joseon became the prototypes for the robes of crown princess of Joseon. After the fall of the Ming dynasty, continued to be worn in Joseon by the queens and crown princesses for special occasions, such as the weddings, and ceremonial occasions. Since the reign of King Yeonjo, the jeogui became the Joseon's queen royal ceremonial clothing instead and the appears to have ceased being worn. However, the basic style of jeogui worn during the latter Joseon period during wedding appears to have been influenced by the of the early Joseon period.
Similar garments
See also
