Cumbi (Qunpi, Qompi, Kumpi) was a fine luxurious fabric of the Inca Empire. Elites used to offer cumbi to the King, and it was a reserved cloth for Royalty. Common people were not allowed to use Cumbi.
Structure
The fabric was a fine
tapestry structure
woven with superfine local cotton and vicuña wool. The male weavers used upright
Loom.
Inca textiles
Textile production was the second most important after agriculture in the Inca period. The strength was the raw material like
alpaca and
llama wool as well as indigenous
cotton. Textile materials were classified into many categories, Chusi was the coarsest cloth used for blankets and rugs.
The closest to Cumbi are the following:
Awsaka
Awaska, a warp faced plain weave cloth with a 120 thread count for regular use, like daily household goods.
Awaska was used for blankets and rugs. It was a coarse wool material from sheep or llama.
Qunpi
Qunpi was a finer and more delicate type than Awaska, divided further into two varieties:
-
Male weavers wove this type. Highly skilled weavers were engaged in weaving Cumbi. They were called ''Cumbi camayos'' (cumbi cloth makers).
-
The finest cloth type of Qunpi had a thread count of 600, was woven by ''acllas''
Cumbi was a valuable textile material; hence the material used was the finest wool from lamb. However, the richest version of the cloth was woven with Vicuña.
Use
Cumbi and
Tocapu, a traditional decorative work, was exclusive to the Inca monarchy. After the destruction of the Inca state, the rules relaxed, and nobles were allowed to use the fabric.
Cumbi was used for Royal usages, e.g., various clothing items such as
Uncu and attire for religious rituals.
