Bottarga is salted, cured fish roe pouch, typically of the Mugil cephalus or the bluefin tuna (). The best-known version is produced around the Mediterranean; similar foods are the Japanese cuisine karasumi and Taiwanese wūyú zǐ, which is softer, and Korean cuisine eoran, from mullet or freshwater drum. It has many names and is prepared in various ways. Due to its scarcity and involved preparation it is expensive and regarded as a delicacy.
Names and etymology
The English name,
bottarga, was borrowed from Italian.
[; 1st edition.] The Italian form is thought to have been introduced from the
Arabic language buṭarḫah (بطارخة), plural form buṭariḫ (), itself from
Medieval Greek ᾠοτάριχον (oiotárikhon), a combination of the words ('egg') and τάριχον ('pickled').
[.]
The Italian form can be dated to , as the Greek form of the word, when transliterated into Latin as ova tarycha, occurs in Bartolomeo Platina's De honesta voluptate (), the earliest printed cookbook. In an Italian manuscript that "closely parallels" Platina's cookbook and dated to shortly after its publication, botarghe is attested in the corresponding passage.[. Italian MS in the Bitting Collection in the Rare Book Room of the United States Library of Congress. In Platina, the word is the Latin transliteration of ὠβά τάριχα.]
The first mention of the Greek form (oiotárikhon) occurs in the 11th century, in the writings of Simeon Seth, who denounced the food as something to be "avoided totally", although a similar phrase may have been in use since antiquity in the same denotation.[ᾠά τάριχα 'eggs of preserved by salting', citing Diphilus of Siphnos quoted in Athenaeus III, 121 C. .]
It has been suggested that the Coptic language outarakhon may be an intermediate form between the Greek and Arabic, whereas examination of dialectical variants of the Greek ᾠόν 'egg' include the Pontic Greek ὠβόν (traditionally where the mullets are caught), and ὀβό or βό in parts of Asia Minor. The modern Greek name comes from the Byzantine Greek, substituting the modern word αυγό for the ancient word ᾠóν.
History
Bottarga production is first documented in the
Nile Delta in the 10th century BCE.
[Dino Joannides, Semplice: Real Italian Food: Ingredients and Recipes, 2014, , s.v.][Mark Kurlansky, Salt: A World History, Knopf, 2011, , p. 39.]
In the 15th century, Martino da Como describes the production of bottarga by salting then smoking to dry it.[Maestro Martino da Como, trans. Stefania Barzini, The Art of Cooking: The First Modern Cookery Book, 2005, , p. 112.]
Preparation
Bottarga is made chiefly from the roe pouch of grey mullet. Sometimes it is prepared from Atlantic bluefin tuna (bottarga di tonno rosso) or
yellowfin tuna.
It is massaged by hand to eliminate air pockets, then dried and cured in sea salt for a few weeks. The result is a hard, dry slab. Formerly, it was generally coated in
beeswax to preserve it, as it still is in Greece and Egypt.
[.]
Regions
Tunisia
Orange and molded in wax or vacuum sealed, Tunisian bottarga is made from mullet eggs and is known as a sought-after product. Initially a feature of the Judeo-Tunisian cuisine, it was introduced in Tunisia by Jews from Constantinople during Ottoman rule, as early as the 16th century.
Egypt
Bottarga is produced in the
Port Said area.
Greece
In
Greece, it is called avgotaraxo or grcavgotaracho () and is produced primarily from the
flathead mullet caught in Greek lagoons. The whole mature ovaries are removed from the fish, washed with water, salted with natural sea salt, dried under the sun, and sealed in melted beeswax.
Avgotaracho Messolonghiou,[Katselis G., et al. (2005). Fisheries research 75:138-148.] made from fish caught in the Messolonghi-Etoliko Lagoons, is a European and Greek protected designation of origin, one of the few seafood products with a PDO.[ Agriculture - Quality Policy - (PDO/PGI) Fresh fish, molluscs and crustaceans and products derived therefrom ]
Italy
In
Italy, it is made from
bluefin tuna in
Sicily, and from
flathead mullet in
Sardinia, where it is called Sardinian butàriga.
Its culinary properties may be compared to those of dry anchovies, although it is much more expensive. Often, it is served with olive oil or lemon juice as an appetizer accompanied by bread or crostini. It is also used in pasta dishes.
Mauritania
Bottarga is produced in
Mauritania["Imraguen Women's Mullet Botargo", Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity, full text ] and
Senegal.
["La Bottarga tra Sardegna e Senegal", Africa, 1 June 2010, full text.]
Turkey
In
Turkey, bottarga is made from grey mullet roe. It is listed in the Ark of Taste. It is produced in
Dalyan, on the southwestern coast of Turkey, from the mature fish migrating from Lake Köyceğiz.
[; ]
United States
There are several producers in
Florida.
[Chris Sherman, "Roe, Roe, Roe at Mote", Florida Trend, 10/4/2012 full text.][John T. Edge, Bottarga, an Export That Stays at Home, The New York Times July 22, 2013 full text.][ The Taste of Bottarga, Bradenton Area Convention and Visitor's Bureau in Bradenton, Florida.]
Elsewhere
There are various small producers elsewhere. For example, bottarga from Atlantic cod (
Gadus morhua) is produced in northern Norway, where it is air-dried.
[ "Bottarga Borealis".]