Lugaw, also spelled lugao, is a Filipino glutinous rice dish or porridge. Lugaw may refer to various dishes, both savory and sweet. In Visayas, savory lugaw are collectively referred to as pospas. Lugaw is widely regarded as a comfort food in the Philippines.
History
According to the National Commission for Culture and the Arts,
lugaw is one of the earliest historically documented dishes in the Philippines. The
Vocabulario de la lengua tagala (1613) by Fr. Pedro de San Buenaventura defines
"logao" (Hispanized as
"aroz guisado") as "rice mixed with coconut milk or water or of both (porridge)."
Description
Lugaw is traditionally made by boiling
glutinous rice (
Ilocano language:
diket ;
Tagalog language:
malagkit;
Visayan language:
pilit). Regular
white rice may also be used if boiled with excess water. The basic version is sparsely spiced, usually only using
salt,
garlic, and
ginger; or alternatively,
sugar. Heartier versions are cooked in chicken, fish, pork or beef broth. It is regarded as a
comfort food and easy-to-digest food, typically prepared for breakfast and during cold and rainy weather. It is also commonly served to people who are sick or bedridden, and to very young children and the elderly.
Lugaw is usually eaten hot or warm, since the gruel congeals if left to cool. It can be reheated by adding a little bit of water.
Variants
Lugaw can be paired or augmented with numerous other dishes and ingredients.
Savory
Most savory versions of
lugaw are derived from or influenced by
Chinese cuisine congee, introduced by
Chinese-Filipino migrants. It has diverged over the centuries to use Filipino ingredients and suit the local tastes. Filipino savory
lugaw are typically thicker than other Asian congees because they use glutinous rice. They are traditionally served with
calamansi,
soy sauce (
toyo), or
fish sauce (
patis) as
Savory
lugaw are usually paired with meat or seafood dishes. The most common is
tokwa't baboy (cubed
tofu and
pork).
Dessert
Sweet versions of
lugaw are more characteristically Filipino. They include:
-
Binignit – lugaw made with coconut milk ( gata) and various slices of fruit, jelly desserts (like sago, tapioca pearls, kaong, etc.), and root crops (like sweet potato, taro, and purple yam). It is known by many other regional names, like giná-tan, tabirák, alpahor, ginettaán, ginat-ang lugaw, and kamlo.
-
Champorado – lugaw with home-made chocolate and milk. It is a native adaptation of the Mexican cuisine drink champurrado. It is traditionally paired with dried fish ( daing), but can be eaten as is as a dessert.
-
Ginataang mais – lugaw made with coconut milk and sweet corn.
-
Ginataang munggo – lugaw with toasted , sugar, and coconut milk. Corn may also be added.
Use as a political symbol
The
lugaw has been widely associated with the political camp of Philippine Vice President
Leni Robredo, originating from her 2016 election campaign during which Robredo's supporters sold the rice porridge as part of a fundraising effort.
Robredo's detractors and
have pejoratively used the tags "Leni Lugaw" or the "Lugaw Queen" after photos of her serving
lugaw circulated online.
In response, Robredo has since adopted the tag during political events and campaigns, including serving
lugaw to attendees of her 2022 Philippine presidential election bid announcement.
See also
Other Philippine rice cooking techniques:
