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Foula (),

(1990). 9780192827456, The University Press. .
located in the archipelago of , is one of the 's most remote permanently inhabited . The liner RMS Oceanic was wrecked on the Shaalds of Foula in 1914. Foula was the location for the film The Edge of the World (1937).


Toponym
The name "Foula" comes from the Fugley 'bird island'.
(2025). 9780199609086, Oxford University Press.
On some early Modern maps (such as 's 1654 map of and Shetland), it is called Fule or . The former – pronounced "foo-lay"– is just an alternative spelling of Foula. The latter is due to ancient sources – notably ' Agricola – often locating the mythical land of Thule in the Shetland Islands region, and the closeness of the island's name. However, the Ancient Norse name post-dates the Thule narrative and is not connected to it.


Geography
Foula lies in the , west of Walls on Mainland, Shetland. It was part of Walls civil parish and now is in the parish of Walls and Sandness. The island is about , with a low-lying coastal strip along the east side. With an area of , it is the eighth largest and most westerly of the Shetland Islands. It rises from low broken cliffs in the east to precipitous cliffs in the west. The island has five peaks, rising to at the Sneug and at the Kame. At the north end is Gaada Stack, a and towards the south-west is Da Sneck Ida Smaalie, a spectacular 30 m deep and 2 m wide crack in the cliffs. Foula lies on the same latitude as .

In 2011 Foula had a population of 30 people, living in Hametun and Ham. At the time of the 2022 census the resident population was 17. Islanders previously made a living from fishing – first for whitefish, then . Today, most islanders are crofters with income from and . The island retains a post office in Ham.

A hidden reef, the "Hoevdi Grund" or the "Shaalds o' Foula", lies just over east of Foula between the island and the Shetland Mainland. Tides here can reach , and as the reef comes to within less than a metre of the surface, it poses a significant threat to shipping. "Hoevdi Grund" Shetlopedia. Retrieved 19 April 2012.


Transport
operates the ferry service from Ham to Walls on Mainland, Shetland. "Foula Ferry Booking Information". BK Marine Ltd. Retrieved 29 June 2024. New Advance carries up to 12 passengers and completes the voyage in about two hours. Flights take off from to . A ferry service ran from Foula to until 2010.

There is little shelter for boats in the island. The only beach is at the head of Ham Voe on the east coast. Local boats, including the , are hauled out of the water.


Wildlife
The island's cliffs are home to numerous birds, including , red-throated divers and , and birders make up the bulk of visitors to the island. The island has been designated an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International because it supports large colonies of cliff- and -nesting .


History

Prehistory
Foula was first inhabited as far back as 5,000 years ago. Between 2006 and 2008, the Bath & Camerton Archeological Society took several trips to Foula to study prehistoric . A particular sub-circular stone circle of interest was discovered in 2006 at Da Heights in the north of Foula. A further investigation launched in 2007 revealed that the sub-circular stone construction was man-made, elliptical in shape with its long axis pointing towards the mid-winter , built before 1000 BC. "The Foula Landscape Project: Da Heights Stones Survey and Investigation" (pdf) (June 2007) Bath and Camerton Archaeological Society. Retrieved 19 April 2012.


15th to 19th centuries
In 1490, the Ciske family's estates were divided and and Foula became the property of Alv Knutsson. However, the Ciskes were Norwegian, and as Scotland had annexed Shetland a few decades before, there were confusing and conflicting claims of ownership.

In 1720, a epidemic struck the two hundred people living on Foula. Because the islanders were so isolated from the rest of the world, they had no immunity to smallpox, unlike most peoples at that time, and nine out of ten of the island's population died in the epidemic.

(1997). 9780300080872, Yale University Press. .

Foula remained on the when the rest of the Kingdom of Great Britain adopted the Gregorian calendar in 1752. Foula adhered to the Julian calendar by keeping 1800 as a leap year, but it did not observe a leap year in 1900. As a result, Foula is now one day ahead of the Julian calendar and 12 days behind the Gregorian, observing on 6 January Gregorian and on 13 January Gregorian.Keay, J. & Keay, J. (1994) Collins Encyclopaedia of Scotland. London. HarperCollins.

The writer and journalist John Sands lived on Foula and for a while during the late 19th century. He opposed the prevailing and drew political cartoons lampooning its deficiencies. In one, he drew Foula as a beautiful young woman being strangled by a boa-constrictor labelled 'landlordism' watched by other reptiles called 'missionary', '' and 'truck'.

(2025). 9781905119004, Windgather Press.
Fleming credits the source of this information as

The island was one of the last places where the was spoken (although it is claimed that Walter Sutherland of Skaw in was the last speaker), and the local dialect is strongly influenced by . In 1774 George Low, a young Scottish clergyman, visited Foula hoping to find remnants of oral literature in Norn, then nearing extinction.The Language of The Ballad of Hildina (2006–2014) He found fragments of songs, ballads and romances, and from his best source, an old farmer called William Henry, the ballad now known as "". Henry was quite poorly acquainted with the language, so that, although he had as a child memorised all 35 stanzas of the ballad in the original Norn, he could give Low only a summary of its content rather than a translation.

(2025). 9781118798027, Wiley Blackwell.
(2025). 9780748623174, Edinburgh University Press. .
"Hildina" is the only extant poem in Norn.


20th century
Professor purchased Foula around 1900, becoming its last . He described the disaster of 8 September 1914, when the armed merchant cruiser HMS Oceanic, formerly a White Star liner, wrecked on the Shaalds o' Foula. Holbourn embarked upon the in May 1915 and survived its sinking.

The professor's grandson, Robert Holbourn, a naval architect, acted as the island's "Peat Marshal" for many years. is a valuable and scarce resource for heat and fuel in Shetland. Its cutting requires skill, taking several years to master. The most able islanders become known as the 'cutters' and, in the spirit of a long-standing Foula tradition, all able-bodied men are now and then "bid to the banks" of women who "didn't have a cutter in the house".

(2025). 9781904746034, Shetland Times.

Simon Martin, who stayed in Foula for five years in the 1970s while salvaging metal from Oceanic, describes the island as follows:

(2025). 9781904746034, Shetland Times.

A at the southern tip of the island was built in 1986. Originally powered by gas, it has been converted to and wind power.


Culture and the arts

Religion
Many inhabitants of Foula attend the Kirk, also known as Baxter Chapel, that is part of the Church of Scotland. It is built of grey stone and is situated "on the tail of 7 Hamnafield".
(1983). 9780709196730, Hale.


Film
  • 's film The Edge of the World (1937) is a dramatisation based on the true story of the evacuation of the last 36 inhabitants of the remote island of St Kilda, on 29 August 1930. St Kilda lies in the , west-northwest of in the ; the inhabitants spoke Gaelic. Powell was unable to get permission to film in St Kilda. Undaunted, he made the film over four months during the summer of 1936 on Foula, where the islanders speak .
  • Return To The Edge Of The World (1978) is a documentary capturing a reunion of the 1937 film's cast and crew, 40 years later, as they revisit the island.
  • In 2023 Polish writer and director Klaudiusz Chrostowski made a low-budget film Ultima Thule, starring Jakub Gierszał as a 30-year-old man arriving on the island to get over the death of his father. The film was almost entirely shot on Foula and features Arthur Henri, a local inhabitant, in the main supporting role. The film won the Best Micro Budget Film Award at Gdynia Film Festival in 2023.


Folklore, festivities and traditions
Foula's inhabitants preserve many Norse traditions of folklore and festivities. They still follow the for Christmas celebrations, with all the islanders gathering in one house on 6 January. New Year's Day falls on 13 January.


Poetry
's poem "Da Sang o da Papa men" about the fishermen of includes an insistent chorus chant, "Rowin Foula Doon". This refers to the fishermen's practice of rowing their open fishing boat out to sea until the high cliffs of Foula were no longer visible. This entailed the boat's being some west of Papa Stour.Vagaland (edited by M. Robertson) (1975) The Collected Poems of Vagaland. Lerwick. The Shetland Times.


Geodesy
The Sneug in Foula was the origin (meridian) of the 6 inch and 1:2500 maps of Orkney and Shetland.


Notable residents
  • Martin Ferguson Smith (b. 1940), scholar and writer. Since retiring in 1995 he has lived in voluntary self-isolation on Foula.
  • (1872 – 1935), was Laird of Foula, a professor and lecturer at the University of Oxford, and a writer.
  • Sheila Gear, author of Foula, Island West of the Sun (published 1983 by Robert Hale Limited). She was born in Oxford and studied zoology at Aberdeen University. She married Jim Gear, a crofter, and wrote a book about crofter life in Shetland.
  • John Sands (1826–1900) of , was a Scottish freelance and artist with an interest in and folk customs. He spent almost a year on St Kilda and lived on several other remote islands including Foula.


See also
  • List of lighthouses in Scotland
  • List of listed buildings in Walls and Sandness, Shetland Islands
  • List of Northern Lighthouse Board lighthouses


Further reading


External links

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