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A zipper (N. America), zip, zip fastener (UK), formerly known as a clasp locker, is a commonly used device for binding together two edges of textile or other flexible material. Used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, camping gear (e.g. tents and sleeping bags), and many other items, zippers come in a wide range of sizes, shapes, and colors. In 1892, Whitcomb L. Judson, an American inventor from Chicago, patented the original design from which the modern device evolved.
The zipper gets its name from a brand of rubber boots (or galoshes) it was used on in 1923. The galoshes could be fastened with a single zip of the hand, and soon the hookless fasteners came to be called "Zippers".
In many jackets and similar garments, the opening is closed completely when the slider is at the top end. Some jackets have double-separating zippers with two sliders on the tape. When the sliders are on opposite ends of the tape, the jacket is closed. If the lower slider is raised then the bottom part of the jacket may be opened to allow more comfortable sitting or bicycling. When both sliders are lowered then the zipper may be totally separated.
Bags, suitcases and other pieces of luggage also often feature two sliders on the tape: the part of the zipper between them is unfastened. When the two sliders are located next to each other, which can be at any point along the tape, the zipper is fully closed.
Zippers may:
These variations are achieved by sewing one end of the zipper together, sewing both ends together, or allowing both ends of the zipper to fall completely apart.
A zipper costs relatively little, but if it fails, the garment may be unusable until the zipper is repaired or replaced—which can be quite difficult and expensive. Problems often lie with the zipper slider; when it becomes worn it does not properly align and join the alternating teeth. With separating zippers, the insertion pin may tear loose from the tape; the tape may even disintegrate from use. If a zipper fails, it can either jam (i.e. get stuck) or partially break off.
Forty-two years later, in 1893, Whitcomb L. Judson, who invented a pneumatic street railway, patented a "Shoe-Fastening".Judson, Whitcomb L. "Shoe-fastening" U.S. Patent Number 504,037 (Filed: August 17, 1892; Issued: August 29, 1893). Judson already held twelve patents for mechanical devices such as motor system improvements and railway brake innovations before the late 19th century. Judson decided to develop a new shoelace alternative which replaced the standard boot laces for men and women. Judson secured a second patent through his "clasp-locker" design on August 29th of 1893. The initial prototype functioned despite having mechanical problems that resulted in jamming occurrences. Judson along with his partner Lewis Walker had implemented the device directly into their own boots. The device served as a (more complicated) hook-and-eye shoe fastener. With the support of businessman Colonel Lewis Walker, Judson launched the Universal Fastener Company to manufacture the new device. Judson's "clasp locker" had its public debut at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair and met with little commercial success. He exhibited his clasp-locker at the World's Fair in Chicago of 1893 but the invention received minimal public attention. Judson is sometimes given credit as the inventor of the zipper, but his device was not used in clothing.
The Universal Fastener Company moved to Hoboken, New Jersey, in 1901, reorganized as the Fastener Manufacturing and Machine Company. Gideon Sundbäck, a Swedish-American electrical engineer, was hired to work for the company in 1906. The company moved to Meadville, Pennsylvania, where it operated for most of the 20th century under the name Talon Zipper Sundbäck worked on improving the fastener, and, in 1909, he registered a patent in Germany. The US rights to this invention were in the name of the Meadville company (operating as the Hookless Fastener Co.), but Sundbäck retained non-U.S. rights and used these in subsequent years to set up Lightning Fastener Co. in St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada. Sundbäck's work with this firm has led to the common misperception that he was Canadian and that the zipper originated in that country. Sundbäck redesigned the Judson fastener to create a more durable design, and the zipper first went on sale in 1913.
In 1916, newspapers in Australia reported displays of the "new hookless fastener", a device from America that "the world has been waiting for" by a live model in the store window of Raynor's of Melbourne.
Sundbäck increased the number of fastening elements from four per inch (about one every 6.4 mm) to ten or eleven (around every 2.5 mm), introduced two facing rows of teeth that pulled into a single piece by the slider and increased the opening for the teeth guided by the slider. The patent for the "Separable Fastener" was issued in 1917.Sundbäck, Gideon "Separable fastener" U.S. Patent Number 1,219,881 (Filed: August 27, 1914; Issued: March 20, 1917). Gideon Sundbäck also created the manufacturing machine for the new device. The "S-L" or "strapless" machine took a special Y-shaped wire and cut scoops from it, then punched the scoop dimple and nib, and clamped each scoop on a cloth tape to produce a continuous zipper chain. Within the first year of operation, Sundbäck's machinery was producing a few hundred feet (around 100 meters) of fastener per day. In March of the same year, Mathieu Burri, a Swiss inventor, improved the design by adding a lock-in system attached to the last teeth, but his version never got into production due to conflicting patents.
In 1923, during a trip to Europe, Sundbäck sold his European rights to Martin Othmar Winterhalter, who improved the design by using ribs and grooves instead of Sundbäck's joints and jaws US Patent 2191874 (Winterhalter) and started producing with his company Riri on a large scale first in Germany, then in Switzerland.
The popular North American term zipper (UK zip, or occasionally zip-fastener) came from the B. F. Goodrich Company in 1923. The company used Gideon Sundbäck's fastener on a new type of rubber boots (or galoshes) and referred to it as the zipper, and the name stuck. The two chief uses of the zipper in its early years were for closing boots and tobacco pouches. Zippers began being used for clothing in 1925 by Schott NYC on leather jackets.
In the 1930s, a sales campaign began for children's clothing featuring zippers. The campaign praised zippers for promoting self-reliance in young children by making it possible for them to dress themselves. The zipper beat the button in 1937 in the "Battle of the Fly", after French fashion designers raved over zippers in men's trousers. A Talon advertisement in the first Esquire magazine declared the zipper the "Newest Tailoring Idea for Men", and that among the zippered fly's many virtues was that it would exclude "The Possibility of Unintentional and Embarrassing Disarray."
A later innovation in the zipper's design was the introduction of models that could open on both ends, as on jackets. The zipper has become by far the most widespread fastener, and is used on clothing, luggage, leather goods, and various other objects.
The airtight zipper is built like a standard toothed zipper, but with a waterproof sheeting (which is made of fabric-reinforced polyethylene and is bonded to the rest of the suit) wrapped around the outside of each row of zipper teeth. When the zipper is closed, the two facing sides of the plastic sheeting are squeezed tightly against one another (between the C-shaped clips) both above and below the zipper teeth, forming a double seal. Drysuits: Zippers, Seals, Valves and Maintenance , NJScuba.net. Illustrated dissection of a dry-suit zipper.
This double-mated surface is good at retaining both vacuum and pressure, but the fit must be very tight to press the surfaces together firmly. Consequently, these zippers are typically very stiff when zipped shut and have minimal flex or stretch. They are hard to open and close because the zipper anvil must bend apart teeth that are being held under tension. They can also be derailed, causing damage to the sealing surfaces, if the teeth are misaligned while straining to pull the zipper shut.
These zippers are very common where airtight or watertight seals are needed, such as on scuba diving , ocean , and .
A less common water-resistant zipper is similar in construction to a standard toothed zipper, but includes a molded plastic ridge seal similar to the mating surfaces on a Ziploc bag. Such a zipper is easier to open and close than a clipped version, and the slider has a gap above the zipper teeth for separating the ridge seal. This seal is structurally weak against internal pressure, and can be separated by pressure within the sealed container pushing outward on the ridges, which simply flex and spread apart, potentially allowing air or liquid entry. Ridge-sealed zippers are sometimes used on lower-cost surface .
The zipper handle can have a short protruding pin stamped into it, which inserts between the zipper teeth through a hole on the slider, when the handle is folded down flat against the zipper teeth. This appears on some brands of trousers. The handle of the fly zipper is folded flat against the teeth when it is not in use, and the handle is held down by both slider hinge tension and the fabric flap over the fly.
The slider can also have a two-piece hinge assembly attaching the handle to the slider, with the base of the hinge under spring tension and with protruding pins on the bottom that insert between the zipper teeth. To move the zipper, the handle is pulled outward against spring tension, lifting the pins out from between the teeth as the slider moves. When the handle is released the pins automatically engage between the zipper teeth again. They are called "auto-lock sliders".
A three-piece version of the above uses a tiny pivoting arm held under tension inside the hinge. Pulling on the handle from any direction lifts the pivoting arm's pins out of the zipper teeth so that the slider can move.
Tex Corp (India) has also emerged as a significant supplier to the apparel industry.
In Europe, the Cremalleras Rubi company was established in 1926 in Spain. It sold over 30 million zippers in 2012. YKK began to develop factory-made machinery independently and created the CM3 machine in 1959 with punching and alternating fixing features. After 1964 the company developed the CM6 that became a world leader for mass production quality capability. YKK established stable production of high-quality zippers at low prices after the CM6 development.
In 2005, The Guardian reported that China had 80 percent of the international market. Most of its product is made in Qiaotou, Yongjia County.
==U.S. Patents==
The zipper is analogous in function to a drawstring, but different in mechanism. A drawstring works by tension in the string drawing the eyelets of the piece together, since the tension acts to straighten the string and forces the eyelets toward a line. The zipper works by an elastic, that is, reversible, deformation of the "locking members" (teeth). The zipper teeth are shaped and sized so that the forces which act on the zipper when the garment it is sewn on is worn cannot unlock the teeth. The slider constrains the teeth positions, moves them along a given path, and acts on the teeth one-by-one in its "Y-shaped channel", and so, can reversibly lock and unlock them. This is a lock and key design. In Sundback's invention the teeth are symmetric with "exterior and interior rounded surfaces" that are "elongated transversely". The teeth have a material part ("external projection") and a space ("internal recess"). The material part of one tooth is slightly smaller than the space on the other and so shaped to act as a "contractible jaw"—the jaw is elastically opened and then closed as it goes over the other tooth. The "snug fit" that results when "one member nests within the recess of an adjoining member" is a stable locked state. The maximum force when the slider operates is in between the unlocked and locked positions, giving two stable mechanical equilibria. The "snug fit" is stable, not only to forces from wear that act in the same direction as those of the slider, but also to transverse and longitudinal (both perpendicular) forces.
The zipper is analogous in mechanism to a bobby pin, where the person's hand slides hair into and out of the pin's "contractible jaw".
In Brave New World, Aldous Huxley repeatedly mentioned zippers, implying that, in their newness (as of the early 1930s), mechanical complexity, ease of use, and speed, zippers were somehow corrosive of natural human values.
When the protective coating of the diecast slider has been worn off by prolonged use, the material can corrode. The corrosion products are usually metal salts which can accumulate and block the slider from moving. When this happens, the salt can often be dissolved by submerging the slider in vinegar or another mild acid. Otherwise, the slider needs to be removed and replaced.DIY Repairs COIL ZIP 2 – The slider is 'frozen' on the coil zip and can't be moved on the webpage of Wilderness Equipment, Australia
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