Slip-ons are typically low, lace-less dress shoe. The style which is most commonly seen, known as a loafer, slippers, or penny loafers in American culture, has a moccasin construction. One of the first designs was introduced in London by Wildsmith Shoes, called the Wildsmith Loafer. They began as casual shoes, but have increased in popularity to the point of being worn in America with . Another design was introduced as Aurlandskoen (the Aurland Shoe) in Norway (early 20th century).Dagens Næringsliv D2 magazine, September 7, 2012.
A less casual, earlier type of slip-on is made with side goring (sometimes called a dress loafer). Made in the same shape as lace-up Oxford shoe, but lacking the laces, these shoes have elasticated inserts on the side which allow the shoe to be easily removed but remain snug when worn. This cut has its greatest popularity in Britain.
The term penny loafer has uncertain beginnings. One explanation is when American prep school students in the 1950s, wishing to make a fashion statement, took to inserting a penny into the diamond-shaped slit on their Weejuns. Either way, the name penny loafer came to be applied to this style of slip-on and has since stuck.
In the mid-1950s, further continental influences brought a more elegant image to light, lower-cut slip-ons, which moved from purely casual use to being paired with suits in the 1960s (but still only in America).Flusser (2002). p. 196 In 1966, Italian designer Gucci made the further step of adding a metal strap across the front in the shape of a horse's snaffle bit. These Gucci loafers (now a general term referring to shoes of this style by any manufacturer) also spread over the Atlantic and were worn by 1970s businessmen, becoming almost a Wall Street uniform, reaching widespread use by the 1980s.
At the start of the twenty-first century, a revival of penny loafers, whose popularity had peaked during the mid- to late 1960s and again during the early 1980s to early 1990s, occurred, with the shoe appearing in a more rugged version, closer to the original concept, as either , or espadrilles, both of these styles being very low or flat without heels. This resurgence was most noticeable at college campuses across America.
Another variation on the basic style is the tassel loafer, which emerged in the 1950s. Again, though casual, their gradual acceptance among the American East Coast prep school culture as equivalent to brogue shoe (wingtips), has led to them being worn there with suits, where they gained an association with business and legal classes.
Wildsmith | 1926 | Raymond Lewis Wildsmith was asked to create a country house shoe. Initially called the 582, now widely known as the Wildsmith Loafer. | Serrated seam and reinforced toe box. Vertical stitching on toe. |
Aurland | 1930 | Shoemaker Nils Gregoriussen Tveranger combined the Native American moccasin with shoes worn by local fishermen, in the town of Aurland, Norway. The Aurland Moccasin was born. | Raised seam on upper, similar to moccasin. Narrow cut out on saddle. |
Penny | 1936 | G.H. Bass of Wilton, Maine, launched a loafer called the 'Weejun' (from 'Norwegian'). It became very popular in the U.S, especially among prep school students, who legend states kept pennies in the saddle slot for pay phone calls. Hence the name 'penny loafers'. | Leather 'saddle' strap across upper, with cut out big enough to hold a penny. |
Kilted | 1950s | Kilties have been fashioned upon brogues and Oxfords by Scottish ghillies, kings and golfers for over 100 years. The loafer got kilted in the 1950s when Kiltie golf shoes and penny loafers were at their fashion zenith. Also popular with Mods and skinheads. | Kilt style over-the-vamp flap, secured by leather string or tassels. |
Horse Bit | 1953 | Italian designer Aldo Gucci refined the lines, added a gold horse bit, and made them in black. This elevated the loafer to formal wear status. While this design was pioneered by Aldo Gucci the horse bit loafer is produced by a wide variety of shoe makers today. | Horse bit style metal link. |
Belgian Shoes | 1954 | Henri Bendel sold his family shoe store and bought two 300-year-old shoe factories in Belgium. His loafers became an instant hit, and the bow was easily recognizable. His work earned him two knighthoods. | Small bow on top and sewn inside out to create a fine seam. |
Tasseled | 1957 | Brooks Brothers and Alden Shoe Co collaborated to produce the popular tasseled loafer. Originally a bespoke commission by actor Paul Lukas who liked the tasseled shoelaces on a pair of Oxfords. | Tassels held in place by a leather strand. |
Though originally men's shoes, some styles of loafers, such as casual tassel and penny loafers, are also worn by women. Women's loafers tend to have shorter toes and are worn with a variety of outfits from shorts, jeans, slacks, and capris to dresses and skirts.
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